KSRO John Ash Soup Recipe Package

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food-recipes-concept

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KSRO SOUPS 2017

 

 

CURRIED APPLE AND MUSSEL CHOWDER

 

Serves 6

 

This soup is fast to make.  We used to gather fresh mussels along our California coast in the fall and winter.  Unfortunately, concerns about pollution especially from land based run off has curtailed that.  Farm raised mussels are a sustainable and excellent alternative.  They are constantly monitored and much more uniform than their wild cousins.  Fresh, farm-raised mussels are generally available year round but you may have to order ahead.

 

3 cups peeled, cored and diced (1/2 inch) tart green apples

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon slivered garlic

1 large red onion, peeled and coarsely chopped (2-1/2 cups)

2 cups leeks, sliced 1/2 inch thick on the diagonal

2 – 3 tablespoons curry powder (depending on strength)

5 cups rich shellfish or chicken stock

2 cups fresh apple juice

1 teaspoon coriander seed, toasted and crushed

1 teaspoon fennel seed, toasted and crushed

1-1/2 cups thinly sliced fresh fennel

3 pounds fresh mussels, scrubbed and beards removed

Big pinch cayenne pepper (optional)

 

Garnish: Feathery sprigs from fennel tops, if desired

 

Sauté apples in one tablespoon olive oil over moderately high heat until just beginning to brown but still firm.  Set aside.

 

Sauté garlic, onions, leeks and curry in remaining oil until just beginning to soften but not brown.  Add wine, stock, apple juice, coriander, fennel seed and simmer for 5 minutes.  Add fresh fennel and mussels and cover and simmer until mussels open, about 3 minutes.  Add optional cayenne and apples and heat through.  Save 18 mussels in shell for garnish.  Remove meat from remaining mussels and divide among 6 warm bowls.  Arrange mussels in shell in each bowl, ladle hot chowder over.  Serve immediately.

 

Recommended wine: This is a terrific match with Gewurztraminer since the sweet spice and fruit in the chowder mirror the same flavors in the wine.

 

 

 

 

HOG ISLAND CLAM CHOWDER

Makes 6 – 8 servings

 

I’ve been part of the Hog Island Oyster family since it was founded more than35 years ago.  Besides oysters, Hog Island also grows Manila clams, a small sweet clam that is good both raw and cooked.  Hog Island selected to raise this clam especially for their acclaimed clam chowder, served at their San Francisco and Napa oyster bars.

 

When developing Hog Island’s chowder recipe, co-founder John Finger gave the chef strict instructions to use only fresh clams — and no flour to thicken it. “Where I grew up, nobody puts flour in the chowder’.   The result is a fresh-tasting, creamy broth surrounding a mass of tiny sweet clams. This is their recipe.

 

1/2 pound high quality bacon, sliced

1 cup celery, thinly sliced

3 cups leek,  white part only, thinly sliced on the diagonal

2 cups carrot, peeled and thinly sliced

3 large sprigs fresh thyme

2 tablespoons butter

5  cups Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into bite-size cubes

6 pounds small, fresh Manila clams in the shell, scrubbed

1 quart heavy cream

Salt and pepper

Chopped parsley for garnish

 

First step: place clams in a colander in the kitchen sink, rinse thoroughly under running water.  Pick through and discard clams with broken or open shells.  Allow clams to drain in the sink while you prepare your stock.

 

BASE: In a large stockpot bring about 5-6 cups of water to a low boil (no salt) and cook the potatoes until al dente, or just before fork-tender.

While the potatoes are simmering, in a second heavy-bottom pot, melt the butter with the thyme. Render the bacon in the butter and thyme (over low heat, careful not to burn); once bacon is rendered add leeks and celery, cook until vegetables are translucent. Add carrots and cook until bendable without breaking.  Add the potatoes and 4 cups of potato water. Turn off heat and set aside.  The base can be made one day ahead and kept chilled.

 

CLAMS: Portion your clams out per single, or double serving, aprox. 1/2 -3/4 lb per serving.  Working in batches, place one or two single serving(s) of clams in a heavy bottomed sauté pan over medium heat.   Ladle one cup of the chowder base on top and cover the pan, simmer for about 5-6 minutes, or until the majority of clams open. Skim through and pick out any clams that have not opened. (Don’t skip this step — unopened clams may spoil the chowder.)

Add in 1/2-cup cream per serving and bring the chowder to a simmer (1-2 minutes). If it is too thick, add in more of the potato water. When the chowder is bubbling in the middle, it is ready to serve.  Pour individual servings into a large soup bowl, or divide double servings between two bowls.

 

CHICKEN AND RICE SOUP WITH EGG AND LEMON

(KOTOSOUPA AVGOLEMONO)

 

Serves 4

 

Avgolemono is a traditional sauce in Greece made of lemon and egg. It requires some attention to make because the acid from the lemons as well as the heat can cause the eggs to curdle.

 

3 large lemons

5 cups chicken stock

1 teaspoon dried oregano

Salt and pepper to taste

2 cups cooked and shredded chicken

1 cup diced carrot

1/2 cup diced celery

1/3 cup long grain rice

1 large egg

2 tablespoons minced fresh mint

 

Zest and juice 1 lemon. Add to a soup pot with the stock, oregano, salt and pepper, carrot, celery and rice and simmer for 10 minutes or until vegetables and rice are tender.    Remove from heat and allow soup to cool for 5 minutes.

 

Whisk egg in a small bowl then beat in the juice of 1 lemon. Gradually beat in 2 cups of soup liquid, being careful not to overheat and curdle the eggs.

 

Return soup to medium-low heat and whisk in egg mixture. Continue cooking, being careful not to boil, until soup is somewhat thickened and creamy. Stir in mint and serve immediately with remaining lemon cut into wedges for guests to squeeze in.

 

 

 

 

 

HANOI CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP

PHO GA

Serves 6

 

This is a poultry variation on the famous PHO soup of Vietnam.  It’s a simple soup to make and illustrates the love of fresh herbs and greens in that part of the world.  You could substitute any green for the bok choy such as spinach, cabbage, arugula, etc.  Be careful not to overcook.

 

8 cups Asian chicken stock
1/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh ginger
3 large cloves garlic, peeled and smashed

4 whole star anise

4 whole cloves

1 3-inch cinnamon stick

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

1 teaspoon whole fennel seed

2 tablespoons brown sugar (or to taste)

3 tablespoons Vietnamese or Thai fish sauce (Nuoc Mam) (or to taste)*
2/3 cup fresh cilantro sprigs
2/3 cup fresh mint and/or tender Thai basil leaves
1 pound chicken breasts or thighs, bone in and skin off
12 ounces baby bok choy, chopped
4 ounces thin rice noodles
1/4 cup finely slivered on the bias scallions
Accompaniments:

Vietnamese hot sauce (Tuong Ot Toi)* or other hot sauce such as Sriracha, Hoisin sauce, bean sprouts, lime wedges, thinly sliced Thai Bird chilies.

 

  1. In a medium stockpot, bring chicken stock to a simmer over medium heat. Add ginger, garlic, star anise, cloves, cinnamon, peppercorns, sugar, fish sauce, 1⁄3 cup each of the cilantro and mint leaves, and the chicken. Bring to a simmer, cover and continue to simmer for 5 minutes. Off heat, allow the chicken to cool covered for 15 minutes.

 

  1. Meanwhile soak the noodles in hot water for 15 minutes or so until they have softened. If necessary cook them in lightly salted boiling water until just tender, 1 minute or so. Drain and rinse well with cold water to stop the cooking

 

  1. Remove chicken and discard bones. Slice each breast thinly and set aside. Strain broth and return to pot and bring to a simmer. Add bok choy and simmer for 2 – 3 minutes or so.

 

  1. Divide noodles and chicken among six bowls. Pour hot broth and bok choy over and top with the scallions, remaining cilantro and mint and accompaniments to your taste.

 

*Available in some supermarkets and in Asian markets.

 

 

 

 

HOT AND SOUR SOUP

 

 

Makes about 1-1/2 quarts serving 4 – 6

 

I love going to Asian markets because they are full of all kinds of mysterious and wonderful sauces and condiments.  Two that have become staples for me are Chinese Black Bean Garlic Sauce and Hot Chili Garlic sauce that comes from both China and Thailand.  With these two I can make a very fast and delicious soup base to which I can add all manner of things including mushrooms, tofu, spinach leaves, cellophane noodles, whatever I have on hand.

 

6 cups rich vegetable or chicken broth

1 teaspoon hot chili garlic sauce

4 teaspoons black bean garlic sauce

2 peeled half dollar size coins of fresh ginger, cut in fine julienne

1 tablespoon brown sugar, or to taste

1/3 cup fresh lime juice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

 

Add stock, sauces, ginger and sugar to a saucepan and bring to the boil.  Reduce heat and simmer covered for 5 minutes.  Add lime juice just before serving.  Season to your taste with salt and pepper.

 

 

 

 

MISO SOUP

 

Serves 4

 

Miso appears in many guises in Japanese cooking.  It is highly nutritious, comes in a wide range of flavors (from salty to sweet) and colors.  Miso soup is quick and easy to prepare and a perfect foil for any fresh seasonal ingredient.  True miso soup uses either a stock made from dried bonito tuna and kelp seaweed or a seaweed stock alone.  Defatted chicken stock can be substituted.

 

2 – 3 tablespoons red or white miso

4 cups dashi (recipe follows)

2 ounces fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and sliced

4 ounces drained, diced soft tofu

1 cup loosely packed spinach or watercress leaves

3 tablespoons or so green onions, thinly sliced on the bias

 

Garnish:  Hot pepper sesame oil

 

In a small bowl soften the miso by stirring in 4 tablespoons or so of warm dashi.  Mixture should be very smooth like a thick sauce.  Gradually stir softened miso into remaining dashi and bring to a simmer in a pot over moderate heat.

 

Add the mushrooms and tofu and simmer gently until mushrooms are just tender, about 2 minutes.  Be careful not to boil soup.  Add spinach and ladle into warm bowls.  Place a couple of drops of hot pepper sesame oil in each bowl and serve.

 

 

 

Dashi Stock:

1 quart cold water

1 one-ounce piece of kombu seaweed

1 ounce dried bonito flakes (katsuo-bushi)

 

Add water and kombu to a soup pot and heat slowly to a bare simmer.  This should take at least 5 minutes.  Do not boil — kombu develops a strong odor and off flavor if boiled.  Remove kombu and add bonito.  Bring to a simmer and then immediately remove from heat (this is done to insure a clear stock).  Allow the bonito flakes to begin to settle to the bottom of the pot, about 5 minutes.  Strain stock thru a fine mesh strainer.

 

Note:  Alternately you can use instant dashi granules called Hon Dashi to make the stock.  These are available in Asian and Japanese markets.

 

 

 

 

CHARD, LENTIL AND POTATO SOUP WITH AROMATIC OIL

 

Serves 6 – 8

 

You could use any sturdy greens or a mixture.  The potato breaks down a bit and adds a nice body to the soup.  I’ve also included an aromatic oil to drizzle on the soup as a final touch.  Leftover oil can be usedto flavor vegetables, scrambled eggs or pasta.

 

1 cup green or other dark lentils such as lentils du puy or beluga
2 quarts chicken or vegetable stock or lightly salted water

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 cups chopped onion

3 tablespoons finely chopped garlic

1 cup chopped celery including leaves

1 tablespoon toasted cumin seed, crushed

1/2 teaspoon fennel seed
5 cups gently packed chopped Swiss chard leaves, tough middle vein discarded
1 medium russet potato, peeled and diced

1/3 cup or so freshly squeezed lemon juice or to your taste

2 teaspoons dried mint

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Aleppo pepper or freshly ground black pepper

Aromatic Oil (recipe follows)

Fried garlic or shallots

 

Wash and pick over the lentils. Place lentils in a deep saucepan and cover with the stock or lightly salted water. Bring to a boil and skim off any foam that surfaces then lower heat and cook gently for 10 minutes.

 

Meanwhile in a large skillet, add the olive oil and gently cook the onion, garlic and celery till soft and just beginning to brown.  Add the cumin and fennel seed and cook for a couple of minutes more.  Add to the lentils along with the chard and potato and simmer for 20 – 25 minutes more or until lentils are tender and potato is very soft and mixture is thick and soupy. Stir in the lemon juice and dried mint and add salt and pepper to your taste.  Serve hot, lukewarm or cool with a drizzle of the aromatic oil and a sprinkling of fried garlic or shallots.

 

Aromatic Oil:
1/4 cup fruity but not too peppery extra virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
1/2 teaspoon crushed cumin seed
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon curry powder such as Madras

1 teaspoon fine sea salt

 

Warm the olive oil in a small skillet or saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the spices and salt and heat, stirring frequently, until the mixture becomes aromatic and the spices are toasted but not burned, about 2 minutes. Watch closely.

 

 

 

 

HABA BEAN “SOUP”

 

Makes a generous 8 cups serving 8 – 10

 

Haba beans are peeled dried fava beans.  These are easier to use since you don’t have to deal with the sometimes tough skin of ordinary dried favas.  They can be mail ordered through a number of sources.  I get mine from Purcell Mountain Farms (866) 440-2326 or www.purcellmountainfarms.com who have a large offering of exotic beans, lentils and rices.  I’ve put soup in quotes above because this recipe is not only delicious as a soup but also as a sauce to pool around sautéed greens, similarly with pasta and in a variety of other delicious ways.  Favas, both fresh and dried, have a slight bitterness that makes them very interesting.  I’ve also included a couple of exotic spices (smoked paprika and sumac) in this recipe that I think will become very much more mainstream in the next few years.  You can find them at good cooking stores and via mail order spice merchants such as Penzey’s or Vann’s.  You can still make the recipe if you don’t have them however.

 

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 cups (2 small) finely chopped onions

2 tablespoons finely chopped garlic

1 cup chopped celery or fennel

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon crushed fennel seed

2 teaspoons sweet smoked paprika

1/4 teaspoon red chile flakes

2 cups dried haba beans, soaked overnight or have used the “quick soak” method

5 cups chicken or vegetable stock or water

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 – 2 tablespoons dried sumac powder or 2 – 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 – 2 tablespoons toasted walnut or hazelnut oil or peppery extra virgin olive oil

Finely grated aged goat cheese such as crottin or parmesan (optional)

 

Heat the oil in a deep soup pot and add the onions, garlic and celery and sauté over moderate heat until crisp tender.  Add the cumin, fennel seed, smoked paprika and chile flakes and continue to sauté for 2 – 3 minutes until spices become fragrant.

 

Add the soaked habas and stock and bring to a boil.  Lower heat to a simmer, cover and cook for 25 – 30 minutes or until beans are very tender and falling apart.  Cool slightly and puree mixture with an immersion or regular blender.  (If using the latter be careful since hot liquids expand mightily.  Fill blender jar only half full, use lowest speed and cover top with a clean towel rather than the lid to allow for expansion.) Season to your taste with salt and pepper.

 

To serve:  Sprinkle sumac on top of soup or alternately stir in a teaspoon or two of fresh lemon juice into each serving.  Drizzle nut oil around and finish with a grating of aged goat cheese, if desired.

 

 

John Ash © 2018