Cooking concept with vegetables and copy space in the middle on wooden background
CRANBERRIES: AN AMERICAN ORIGINAL
The cranberry, along with blue berries and the Concord grape, have a unique and special place in
American cuisine. They are the three North American native fruits that are grown in commercial
quantities. There are of course lots of other fruits native to North America such as the paw paw
and the Saskatoon berry but these aren’t grown commercially. Native Americans used wild
cranberries extensively as a food and also as a fabric dye and healing agent. When the European
settlers landed, they in turn adopted the versatile cranberry and, in addition to the uses that
Native Americans put it to, they also used it as a valuable bartering tool. American whalers and
sailors also carried cranberries, which are full of Vitamin C, on their voyages to prevent scurvy.
The name “Cranberry” is thought to come from the Pilgrim name for the fruit, “crane berry”. It
apparently was called this because the small, pink blossoms that appear in the Spring resemble
the head and bill of a Sand hill crane. It has also been called the “bounce berry” because they
will bounce when ripe. This is in fact a good way to test for ripeness when you are buying them
in bulk.
The USA still is the place where much of the world’s supply of cranberries comes from.
Wisconsin is the largest producer accounting for over half of the production. Maine is next with
25% or so followed by New Jersey, Washington and Oregon who make up the rest. Canada also
produces a large crop of cranberries mainly in Quebec, Nova Scotia, and British Columbia.
One of the common misconceptions about cranberries is that they are grown in or underwater.
They do require water in the beginning and typically end of their growing cycle. The season
begins in Winter when growers flood the bogs with water that freezes and insulates the vines
from frost. As the Winter snow melts and Spring arrives, the bogs are drained and the plants
grow in dry beds. Blossoms soon appear and in mid-July, petals fall from the flowers leaving
tiny green nodes which, after weeks of summer sun, become red, ripe cranberries. Cranberries
are typically harvested in September and October. Most cranberries are harvested using the wet
method when growers flood their bogs with water. They then use harvesting machines that
loosen the cranberries from the vine. With small air pockets in their center, the cranberries float
to the water’s surface. Growers corral the berries onto conveyers that lift them from the flooded
bog onto trucks and into processing plants. A small percentage of cranberries are dry harvested.
This process uses mechanical pickers, resembling lawn mowers with comb-like conveyer belts
that pick the berries and carry them to attached burlap bags.
Storing Cranberries
If you buy cranberries in a plastic bag, the bag can go directly into the freezer. Bulk cranberries
can be frozen in a freezer bag or freezer container. Cranberries will last up to nine months in the
freezer. Frozen cranberries can be used in recipes without thawing since frozen berries will be
soft when thawed, it is easier to chop or grind them while frozen.
The Health Benefits of Cranberries
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During the last decade or so there have been several research studies done that suggest thatcranberries are not only a healthy, low-calorie fruit, they may also help prevent urinary tractinfections and reduce the risk of gum disease, ulcers, heart disease and may have anticancerproperties. Cranberries contain significant amounts of flavonoids and polyphenols which arepowerful antioxidants. Antioxidants are compounds that are naturally manufactured by the bodyand/or are ingested, primarily as components of fruits and vegetables, that have the ability tostabilize harmful free radicals. Under conditions of stress from either internal or external sources,the human body’s ability to produce antioxidants can become severely impaired. There is goodevidence that cranberries can serve as a good source of supplemental antioxidants. To put itsimply, antioxidants protect our bodies from harmful molecules that we are exposed to every dayof our lives. The body produces free radicals through normal metabolic pathways (i.e. extractingenergy from the food we eat). Exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet radiation, tobacco smoke, andexposure to certain naturally occurring chemicals can also be sources of free radical production.In short, we are exposed to potential sources free radical production every day of our lives.Following are some of my favorite cranberry recipes.CRANBERRY LIQUEURMakes about 4 cupsThis is one of my favorites not only because it tastes great but also because the color isoutrageous! Fresh cranberries are only available for a short time in the fall. You can howeveruse frozen cranberries if you remembered to save some. This makes a great holiday gift. Also,be sure to save the strained cranberries. They make a wonderful chutney or salsa.4 cups whole cranberries2 1/2 cups vodka or light rum2 cups sugarZest from one small orangeRinse cranberries thoroughly and discard any stems or bruised berries. Coarsely chop the berriesby hand or in a food processor and add to a clean jar with the rest of the ingredients. Cover andstore in a cool dark spot for 3 months. Shake and turn jar every week or so to help dissolvesugar. Strain carefully and bottle with a tight-fitting cap or cork. Allow to age at least one moremonth before using.SPICED CRANBERRY JAM2
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Makes 1-1/4 cupsVery simple to make and can be used on toast or bagels, as an accompaniment to roasted meatsand birds, as a filling for thumbprint cookies, especially good with a cheese plate and or courseto dress a turkey sandwich. It has a tart-sweet flavor and the recipe doubles or triples easily sothat you can make holiday gifts from your kitchen. Store refrigerated for up to 1 month. Youcan also process using the water bath method for a shelf stable product that can be stored for upto a year. Cranberries have lots of pectin and thicken all on their own.1 cup apple juice12 ounces fresh cranberries, stemmed and rinsed3 whole star anise3 whole allspice, coarsely crushed with the bottom of a sauce pan or rolling pin1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon3/4 cup sugarZest and juice of 1 lemonPinch saltBring the apple juice to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the remainingingredients and bring back to the boil. Reduce heat and simmer covered, stirring occasionally,until all the berries have burst, about 10 minutes. Uncover and cook for another minute or two.The mixture will be thick.Strain through a medium mesh strainer, pushing the thick mixture through with a spatula.Discard the solids.Transfer to a container; when cooled to room temperature, cover and refrigerate.CRANBERRY SORBETMakes about 1 quartThis makes a not too sweet palate cleanser when served by itself or a nice foil for fresh tropicalfruits like pineapple and mango. My favorite use though is to scoop a small ball into a martiniglass and then splash a little vodka over. It’s a fun version of the classic “Cosmopolitan”.2 cups sugar2 cups water1-1/2 pounds (5 cups) fresh or frozen cranberries1/2 cup fresh lime juice (or to taste)2 tablespoons orange flavored liqueur such as Grand Marnier*3
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Add sugar and water to a small sauce pan and bring to a boil, stirring until sugar has dissolved.Add cranberries and simmer covered until berries have burst, about 10 minutes.Strain mixture through a medium mesh strainer, pressing down gently on solids to extract thejuices. Discard solids and chill the mixture covered for at least 2 hours. Stir in the lime juice,liqueur and freeze in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s directions. Transfer to anairtight container and put in freezer to harden.*If you prefer a non-alcoholic version you can use one of the orange flavored syrups used toflavor coffees that are now widely available.FRESH CRANBERRY AND TANGERINE SALSAMakes about 1 quartHere’s a twist on salsa that links Mexico to the North East. It requires no cooking and is anexcellent accompaniment to roast turkey at Thanksgiving when both cranberries and tangerinesare readily available. I also think it’s great with ham, pork and game, and all kinds of smokedmeats and sausages and maybe even on a quesadilla!1 twelve-ounce package (3 cups) fresh or frozen cranberries2 medium tangerines, scrubbed1/2 cup coarsely chopped cilantro or mint, or preferably a combination1 cup or so sugar or to taste2 tablespoons fresh lemon juiceDrops of your favorite hot sauce to taste3/4 cup lightly toasted, finely chopped pecans or walnutsWash and pick over the cranberries. Cut tangerines in eighths, peel and all, and pick out allseeds. Place cranberries, tangerines, cilantro or mint, sugar, lemon juice and hot sauce in a foodprocessor and chop in short bursts until relatively fine. Be careful not to over process; you stillwant some texture. Taste for sweetness and add more sugar if desired. Allow to sit for at leastan hour for flavors to develop. Just before serving sir in the nuts and adjust sweet/sour/hotflavors to your own taste. Salsa can be stored (without nuts) covered in the refrigerator for up to3 days or in the freezer for a month.ELIZABETH WHITE’S STEAMED CRANBERRY PUDDING4
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Serves 8 or soThis is a recipe I got from Tom Darlington of Medford New Jersey whose Aunt Elizabeth wasone of the prominent pioneers in the cranberry industry. She is credited with creating individualcellophane packaging as part of her work with the Ocean Spray cooperative. Tom does this in anantique 6-cup steamer mold. You can buy steamed pudding molds in good cookware storesespecially around the holidays. You can also use an empty coffee can with a tight-fitting lidwhich is what my Grandmother did. He notes that “Aunt Elizabeth carefully cut each berry inhalf cross wise, which takes a long time! I cut them randomly and my daughter zips them brieflyin the food processor. The flavor is the same but I think the larger pieces of the tart berries addssomething.”2 teaspoons baking soda dissolved in 1/2 cup hot water1/2 cup molasses1-1/2 cups flour1/4 teaspoon each cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg2 cups cranberries cut in halfButter for coating pudding moldDessert sauce (recipe follows)Add soda mixture and molasses to a bowl. Add 1’2 cup flour and mix till smooth. Add spices,cranberries and rest of flour and mix. Till evenly moistened. Butter the inside of the puddingmold, cover tightly and steam in a covered pot for 1-1/2 hours. Serve hot with sauce.Dessert Sauce1 cup sugar1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter1/2 cup heavy cream1 teaspoon vanillaPinch of saltAdd ingredients to the top of a double boiler and cook whisking occasionally till smooth. Servewarm.CRANBERRY APPLE CRISPSServes 8This is adapted from a recipe by that maven of baking, Dorie Greenspan.5
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For the topping3/4 cup all-purpose flour1/2 cup (packed) light brown sugar1/2 cup old-fashioned oats1/2 cup shredded sweetened coconut1 teaspoon ground cinnamon1/4 teaspoon ground ginger1 stick (8 tablespoons) cold unsalted butter cut into 4 piecesFor the filling4 medium tart sweet apples, peeled, cored and cut into 1/4-inch chunks1 cup fresh or frozen cranberries (if frozen, don’t thaw)1/2 cup moist, plump dried cranberries2/3 cup sugar1 tablespoon all-purpose flourCenter a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly butter eight 1-cup ovenproofcups or ramekins. Put the cups on a baking sheet lined with parchment or a silicone mat.To make the topping:Put all the ingredients in a food processor and pulse just until the mixture forms big curds, about1 minute.To make the filling:Toss all the ingredients together in a large bowl. Divide the fruit evenly among the cups thenspoon an equal amount of topping over each portion of fruit. Bake the crisps for 40-45 minutesor until the topping is golden and the fruit juices are bubbling up around it. Transfer the cups to arack and let them rest for at least 10 minutes before serving.Serve as is or with a spoonful of crème fraiche or lightly sweetened whipped cream.CRANBERRY UPSIDE DOWN CAKEServes 8 to 10This was adapted from one of my favorite on-line sources, David Liebovitz(www.davidlebovitz.com) who was a pastry chef at Chez Panisse and now lives the good life inParis. This cake can also be made in a regular 9-inch cake pan, one that is fine to heat on thestovetop. If using frozen cranberries, no need to defrost them before using.Topping4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed3/4 cup packed light brown sugar3 cups (10 ounces) fresh or frozen cranberries6
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Batter1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour1/4 cup coarse cornmeal or polenta1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder, preferably aluminum-free1/4 teaspoon salt1/2 cup (4oz) unsalted butter, cubed, at room temperature3/4 cup granulated sugarGrated zest of one lemon2 large eggs, at room temperature1 teaspoon vanilla extract1/2 cup whole milk, at room temperatureIn a 9- to 10-inch cast iron skillet, melt the 4 tablespoons of butter and the brown sugar together,stirring frequently, until the sugar is moistened and liquefied. When the mixture starts to bubble,remove from heat and set the pan aside.Preheat the oven to 350ºF (180ºC).In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal or polenta, baking powder, and salt.In the bowl of a stand mixer, or by hand in a mixing bowl with a spatula, beat the butter,granulated sugar and lemon zest at medium high speed for 3 to 5 minutes, until very light andfluffy.Reduce the speed of the mixer to medium and add the eggs one at a time, stopping the mixer toscrape down the sides. Stir in the vanilla extract.At low speed, add half of the flour mixture, then the milk, then the remaining dry ingredients,mixing just enough so that they’re all combined. Do not overmix.Distribute the cranberries in the prepared pan over the brown sugar mixture and shake the pan sothey are in a relatively even layer. Spoon the batter over the cranberries in four mounds, then usea spatula to spread the batter evenly over the fruit.Bake the cake until the top is golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center comes outclean, about 50 minutes. Remove from the oven, wait 10 minutes, then run a knife around thecake. Place a serving platter overturned on top of the cake in the skillet, then using oven mitts tocover your hands, flip the two over simultaneously, until the cake releases from the pan.Note: The cake is best made and served the same day, warm if possible. It is also good served atroom temperature. This cake isn’t a good candidate for freezing.John Ash© 20187