SALMON IS COMING

I love Spring and always look forward to the commercial salmon season. Salmonids are a large group of cold-water fishes, found mostly in subarctic areas and high elevations. It includes salmon, trout, chars, freshwater whitefishes, and graylings. The recipes included here are interchangeable.

I’m often asked if I had to choose a last meal – – what would it be? For me it would be a piece of roasted or grilled wild-caught King salmon with a glass of Russian River Pinot Noir! Heaven!

Types of Salmon

The Pacific Ocean is home to six types of salmon, and U.S. and Canadian boats fish five of them: King, Sockeye, Silver, Pink, and Chum. To confuse matters, each of these has at least one other name as well as their Latin name, as noted below. They are listed by the most common names you’ll likely see at markets.

King salmon (Oncorhynchus tschawytscha), also known as Chinook, is considered by many to be the best-tasting of the salmon bunch. They have a high-fat content and corresponding rich flesh that ranges from white to a deep red color.

Coho salmon (Oncorhynchus kisutch) are sometimes called silver salmon or “silvers” because of their especially silver skin. They have bright red flesh and a slightly more delicate texture than Chinook salmon but a similar flavor.

Pink salmon (Oncorhynchus gorbusha) are the most common Pacific salmon. They have very light colored, flavored flesh and low-fat content. Pink salmon are often canned but also sold fresh, frozen, and smoked. They are sometimes called “humpies” or humpback salmon because of the distinctive hump they develop on their back when they spawn.

Sockeye (Oncorhynchus nerka) salmon are noted for their bright red-orange flesh and deep rich flavor. They are known as “reds” both for their dark flesh color and because they turn deep red (from the bright silver pictured here, which is how you’ll see them at markets since the commercial catch is caught at sea) as they move upstream to spawn.

Chum (Oncorhynchus keta) is also known as Silverbrite, Keta and Dog Salmon because of its dog-like teeth. Keta comes from its species name and is a way to get away from the negative association chum sometimes has. Keta is a smaller fish—averaging about 8 pounds—with pale to medium-colored flesh and a lower fat content than other salmon. Chum is usually canned or sold frozen to foreign markets.

Atlantic Salmon (Salmo salar), commonly known simply as Atlantic salmon. All commercially available Atlantic salmon is farmed.

Farmed vs. Wild Caught

Whether you are aware of it or not – – most of the salmon that we see in the market today comes from farmed sources. Salmon represents a perfect case study for what’s happening with other farmed fish and there are both good and not-so-good aspects to become familiar with. Like most other edible fish, wild salmon has suffered from the twin problems of both over-fishing and destruction of breeding habitat. As numbers declined, prices went up and rather than backing off and giving the fish a chance to regenerate, it seems like its human nature to want them even more.

In the 1970’s, the Norwegians revolutionized the market for salmon by developing a method for farming them using large floating pens anchored in pristine sheltered fjords and bays. This technology spread around the world to other northern European locations as well as to both coasts of Canada and the US and to New Zealand and Chile. In the early days restaurants touted “Norwegian Salmon” as something special suggesting that they might be superior to native wild species.

I had a chance to visit Norway in the early 80’s to see salmon farming and it really was quite amazing. Big floating pens contained hundreds of fish. It was quite a system. The fish originated from the farm’s own hatchery nearby. Once released into the pens they were fed several times a day with formulas containing fishmeal and other nutrients and as a result grew quickly and efficiently. The net of this was that salmon, which had previously been limited by seasonal availability, now became available year-round, plus farming provided uniform and consistent quality and size. Prices dropped as efficiencies of farming increased and this all helped to make salmon as universally popular as it is today.

There were a couple of dark clouds, however. The most successful species for farming is the Atlantic salmon. It adapts well to farm conditions where the Pacific species was less adaptive and from an economic standpoint, they grow slower. The Atlantic of course is not native to the west coast of America and Canada and concern increased about possible loss of native species with the importation of Atlantic’s. Even though they are contained in pens, some do escape and colonize locally.

There is also concern that genetic differences between farm raised which are engineered to grow twice as fast as their wild cousins could create havoc with the gene pool of wild salmon.

Why should all of this matter? Isn’t the farmed the same and as good as the wild version? For me the farmed salmon have a different flavor. Since they are fed formula food which accelerates their growth and their flesh is softer – – since they consume excess calories and don’t get the same “exercise” as their wild counterparts. Also, they’re fatter, and even though its “good” fat (high in omega 3), it can be too much of a good thing.

During my visit to Norway another fact emerged and that is the use of antibiotics. Since the salmon were living in an “unnatural” environment, i.e., many more occupying a space than would occur in the wild, they were more likely to be susceptible to the spread of diseases. Antibiotics were routinely used to prevent this (something akin to what happens in commercial chicken and pork farming). We know now that overuse of antibiotics can actually foster the development of super strains of resistant microorganisms. This practice should be of concern to all of us no matter the source and again underscores the importance of clean, wholesomely grown ingredients.

While farmed salmon has a bad reputation in terms of sustainability and purity, salmon farming techniques have made great strides in recent years. The jury however is still out in my mind.

All Photographs from John Burgess Santa Rosa Press Democrat.

QUICK SALMON GRAVLAX

Serves 4 as a starter course

This is similar to gravlax which the Scandinavians are famous for. Here I don’t marinate for a day or two as we would for ordinary gravlax but cure it for just a few minutes and then top with a lemon and herb vinaigrette.

1/2-pound salmon fillet, skin on and chilled
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 teaspoon coarsely chopped tarragon
2 teaspoons coarsely chopped parsley
1 teaspoon chopped chives
Juice of 1 lemon
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons drained small capers
2 teaspoons rinsed fresh cured salmon roe
Caperberries for garnish
Good crackers or black bread, sliced, to serve alongside.

Slice the salmon on a 45-degree bias as thinly as you can without tearing it. Using the skin as your guide, slide the knife as close to it as possible (there should be no skin adhering to the slice). Use long sawing strokes to make the slices. It’s best if you can almost see through the fish. Cut away and discard any of the dark meat. Each slice should be about 1 ounce.

Sprinkle each plate of 4 plates with a little salt and pepper and lay two slices of the salmon neatly on top. Sprinkle with a little more salt and pepper and cover with plastic wrap for 15 minutes to allow the salmon to quick cure.

To serve: Whisk together the herbs, lemon juice and olive oil. Drizzle over the salmon and scatter the capers and salmon roe over. Serve immediately with crisp crackers or thinly sliced black bread.

SALMON CAKES

Serves 8 as an appetizer

In my restaurant days when we were filleting fresh salmon, we always seemed to have a few small pieces left over. I created this recipe to take advantage of those little tidbits. I often will serve these cakes on a bed of savory salad greens and garnish them with a dollop of fresh salsa or an herb aioli. You’ll note that I call for the salmon to be both diced and finely chopped. This gives a nice texture to the finished cake.

5 ounces fresh salmon, cut into 1/4-inch dice
5 ounces fresh salmon, very finely chopped
3 ounces fresh uncooked shrimp (4 medium) cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 egg white, beaten
2 tablespoons finely diced red or yellow bell pepper (or a combination)
1 tablespoon finely chopped green onions
2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon seeded and minced jalapeno chile (or to taste)
2 teaspoons or so mayonnaise
2 teaspoons drained and chopped capers
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/3 cup or so Panko or other coarse dry breadcrumbs, plus more for dredging
Olive oil for sautéing

In a medium bowl, combine all the ingredients for the salmon mixture. It should just hold together and at the same time not be too dense and heavy. Add more breadcrumbs or mayonnaise if needed. Divide the mixture and pat to form into 8 cakes. Dredge the salmon cakes in remaining breadcrumbs that you’ve seasoned with salt and pepper. (The salmon cakes may be prepared in advance to this point. Store uncovered in the refrigerator for up to 4 hours.) In a large sauté pan pour in oil to a depth of 1/8 inch. Heat the oil and sauté the cakes until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side. Serve immediately with a dollop of flavored mayonnaise or tartar sauce, if desired.

SMOKY SALMON AND POTATO CHOWDER

Serves 4

I go fishing in Alaska each summer and catch beautiful salmon, halibut, black cod and rockfish. Part of the catch is always smoked for later eating. My favorite is salmon, but any hot smoked fish could be used here.

3 slices thick sliced smoked bacon, diced
2 tablespoons butter
3 cups leeks, white and light- green parts, thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon hot smoked paprika
1/3 cup dry white vermouth or white wine
3 cups fish, chicken or vegetable stock
3/4-pound fingerling potatoes, cut into 1/4-inch rounds or quarters
1/2 teaspoon crushed fennel seeds
1 cup or so crème fraîche
12 ounces skinned and boned hot smoked salmon fillet, cut into 2-inch chunks
1 small bunch spinach, separated into leaves with large stems removed
Garnish with a drizzle of smoked or extra virgin olive oil

In a heavy pot over medium-high heat, brown bacon until crisp, about 5 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer bacon to a paper-towel-lined plate to drain.

Spoon off all but 1 tablespoon of bacon fat from the pot. Add butter and let melt. Add leeks and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until leeks are soft but not browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in paprika and vermouth and simmer until almost evaporated, about 3 minutes. cook 1 minute. Stir in stock, 1 cup water, potatoes and fennel and cook until potatoes are just tender, about 15 minutes.

Stir in crème fraîche until smooth. Add fish and cook until just opaque, 2 to 4 minutes. Use a fork to flake fish into large pieces if desired. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Divide spinach in the bottoms of warmed bowls and ladle soup over. Sprinkle on reserved bacon, a drizzle of olive oil and serve immediately.

 

SALMON NICOISE SALAD

Serves 4

I alternately substitute sunny side up chicken or quail eggs fried in olive oil for the hard cooked version included here.

3/4 pound small fingerling potatoes, scrubbed
1/4 cup mixed chopped fresh herbs such as parsley, chives, tarragon
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard, or to taste
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, or to taste
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 small head Boston or iceberg lettuce, leaves washed and patted dry
1/4 pound cooked tiny green beans (haricot verte)
1 pound hot smoked salmon cut into attractive pieces
2 hard-cooked eggs, cut in quarters
1/3 cup Niçoise olives
8 caperberries for garnish (optional)

Place the potatoes in a large saucepan of salted water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer until just tender, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, whisk together the chopped herbs, mustard, lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste, and olive oil in a medium bowl. Set aside.

Remove the potatoes from the pot and cut them in half when they are cool enough to handle and toss with a little of the vinaigrette. Arrange the lettuce, potatoes, and green beans on 4 plates. Top each with the salmon, eggs, olives and caperberries. Drizzle with the dressing and serve.

Tip: To make perfect hard-cooked eggs (soft whites, no rubbery texture, and no green rings around the yolks) place the eggs in a pot of cold water, then bring it to a boil. Turn off the heat and let the eggs sit in the water, covered, for 5 minutes. Drain, crack then plunge the eggs into cold water. Peeling the eggs under cold running water makes the shells easier to remove.

CLASSIC SMOKED SALMON EGGS BENEDICT

Serves 4

Traditionally Eggs Benedict uses Canadian bacon. Here I’m using smoked salmon. According to The Food Lover’s Companion by Sharon Tyler Herbst, Eggs Benedict originated at Manhattan’s famous Delmonico’s Restaurant when regular patrons, Mr. and Mrs. LeGrand Benedict, complained that there was nothing new on the lunch menu. Delmonico’s maître d’ and Mrs. Benedict began discussing possibilities and Eggs Benedict was supposedly the result.

Hollandaise Sauce (recipe follows)
2 teaspoons vinegar
4 large eggs
2 English muffins, fork split in half
Softened butter
5 ounces or so sliced smoked salmon
Optional garnishes: Dusting of paprika and fresh salmon roe

Make the Hollandaise sauce and keep warm. Poach the eggs by filling a 10-inch skillet with water at least 1-inch deep. Add vinegar and bring to a simmer. Break the eggs one by one and carefully slide into the water around the edge of the skillet which will help keep the eggs together. Poach for 3 minutes or so or until the whites of the eggs are just set. You want the yolks to be runny. Alternately you can add the eggs, turn off the heat, cover the skillet and let them sit for 4 minutes or so.

Meanwhile toast the English muffin halves and lightly spread with butter.

To serve: Place a muffin half on 4 warm plates, top each with the smoked salmon, a poached egg and a big dollop of hollandaise. Garnish if you like with a sprinkle of paprika and/or fresh salmon roe.

Easy blender Hollandaise Sauce
Makes about 1 cup

8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter
2 egg yolks
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Melt the butter in a small saucepan over moderate heat. Place the egg yolks, lemon juice and mustard in a blender and pulse 2 or 3 times to combine. With the blender running slowly add the hot butter in a thin stream. Season to your taste with salt and pepper. Add more lemon juice if you’d like. Keep warm.

Note: If the sauce curdles or “breaks” (separates) you can correct by whisking in a teaspoon or two of boiling water, a drop at a time. If that doesn’t work, put another egg yolk in a bowl and very slowly whisk in the broken sauce. Usually, it’ll come back together with one of these two methods.

 

PAN ROASTED SALMON WITH SEARED CORN SAUCE

Serves 4

Fresh corn makes a delicious sauce for any fish or white meat like pork or chicken. This is an easy to prepare recipe and best when sweet summer corn is available. Any firm white fish you like can be substituted.

3 tablespoons butter
2-1/2 cups fresh corn kernels (from 2 large ears)
1 cup finely chopped onion
1/4 teaspoon chipotle or other pure chile powder (or to taste)
1-1/2 cups chicken or shrimp stock
2/3 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon dry sherry (optional)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
4 6-ounce fillets of salmon, pin bones removed, skin on
Fresh herb sprigs such as basil, tarragon or chervil
2 tablespoons rinsed salmon roe (optional)

Add 2 tablespoons butter to a large sauté pan and heat over moderately high heat. Add 1/2 cup corn and, stirring often cook until it begins to brown on the edges. Set aside for garnish. Add onion, remaining 2 cups corn and chile powder to pan and cook until onion softens about 3 minutes. Add stock, cream and sherry and continue to cook for a few minutes until mixture just begins to thicken and vegetables are very soft, about 6 minutes.

Off heat, add to a blender and carefully puree until very smooth. Strain thru a fine mesh strainer pressing down on the solids. Discard solids, return sauce to pan and keep warm. Adjusting seasoning to your taste.

Meanwhile melt remaining butter and oil in a large nonstick sauté pan over medium heat. Season salmon generously with salt and pepper. Place skin side down in the pan. Cook until skin is lightly browned and beginning to crisp, about 4 minutes. Turn fish and cook flesh side for another couple of minutes or until done.

Place salmon on warm plates. Spoon warm sauce around and top with reserved browned kernels. Garnish with herbs sprigs and salmon caviar if using.

 

SMOKED TROUT SALAD

Serves 4

You can substitute hot-smoked salmon if you like. Smoked trout is available at deli counters in most large supermarkets. You can also order online. I like the one from Duck Trap in Maine.

Honey lemon vinaigrette (recipe follows)
1 small tart-sweet apple such as Fuji, Gala or Cosmic Crisp
4 large handfuls mixed young salad greens such as arugula, spinach, cress, mache, frisée
1 cup salad sprouts such as sunflower or mustard (optional)
1 smoked trout (10 ounces), skin and bones discarded and broken into bite size pieces
3 tablespoons toasted, slivered blanched almonds
1/4 cup golden raisins or dried tart cherries
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Make the vinaigrette and set aside. Cut apple into wedges and core. Cut wedges into thin slices (1/4 inch). In a large bowl add the apple along with a bit of the vinaigrette and toss gently to coat. Add remaining ingredients with as much vinaigrette as you want and toss to combine. Season to your taste with salt and pepper and serve.

Honey Lemon Vinaigrette
Makes 1 generous cup

2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot
6 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 tablespoons or so fragrant honey
4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
4 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Whisk all ingredients together and season with salt and pepper. Store covered and refrigerated up to 3 days.

John Ash © 2022