These simple recipes reflect flavors of this part of the world.
ITALIAN EGG DROP SOUP
Serves 4 – 6
In Rome this classic soup is known as Stracciatella. Add some watercress, or wilted spinach, or cooked beans or whatever else you like.
6 cups good quality store-bought or homemade chicken broth
5 black peppercorns
1 sprig thyme
1 small, dried bay leaf
2 large eggs
1/4 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
4 basil leaves–stacked, rolled and thinly sliced crosswise
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 lemon, quartered
In a medium saucepan set over medium-high heat, bring the chicken broth to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the peppercorns, thyme and bay leaf and cook gently and covered to concentrate flavors, about 20 minutes. Strain and discard solids.
In a small bowl, use a fork to beat the eggs with the Parmesan cheese. Return the soup to a simmer and while whisking the hot broth with a fork, slowly pour in the egg-cheese mixture, stirring until the eggs have formed ribbons and are just set, 30 seconds to 1 minute.
Stir in the basil, salt and pepper and serve the soup with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.
RISOTTO WITH ASPARAGUS, ROASTED GARLIC AND LEMON
Serves 6
Risottos are wonderful “comfort foods”. The key is to make sure that when the risotto gets to that magic place when each grain of rice is soft and creamy but still with a little texture in the very center, serve it up immediately. Wait more than a few minutes and it gets too soft and gummy. That’s why its one of one of those things that I like to do with everyone already in the kitchen, bowls at hand, sharing a glass of wine, gossiping, etc.
3 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup sliced shallots
1-1/2 cups Arborio rice
1 cup sliced shiitake mushrooms
3 tablespoons chopped roasted garlic
1/2 cup dry white wine
5 – 6 cups hot vegetable or chicken stock
1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan or Asiago cheese
1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest
2 cups young asparagus, tips reserved and stalks sliced diagonally about 1/4 inch long
1/3 cup chopped fresh chives
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Drops of fresh lemon juice to taste
Garnish: Additional Parmesan shaved and deep fried basil sprigs, if desired
Melt butter in a deep, heavy bottomed saucepan. Add shallots and cook over moderate heat until soft, not brown. Add rice and shiitakes and cook, stirring often until rice is translucent, about 3 minutes.
Add garlic, wine and enough stock to cover rice mixture and cook stirring constantly until liquid is nearly absorbed. Continue adding hot stock in this manner stirring all the time and letting the rice absorb the stock before adding more. Begin testing rice after about 12 minutes. You’re looking for the rice to be creamy and not gummy. The center of each rice grain should still have some texture and bite (al dente). This will take 16 – 18 minutes total. Stir in the asparagus and cook for a minute of two longer. Then stir in the zest, chives and cheese and season to your taste with salt, pepper and drops of lemon juice. Serve in warm bowls garnished with shaved Parmesan and fried basil.
LEMON ZABAGLIONE WITH STRAWBERRIES
Serves 6
Zabaglione (Italian) or Sabayon (French) is a simple but delicious dessert that can be made at the very last minute that is best while it’s still warm. It’s like a soufflé without the dish. Serve it with fresh fruits either just spooned on the side or for a more dramatic presentation arranging the fresh fruits in a shallow bowl, spooning the zabaglione on top and quickly browning it with a propane torch or under a hot broiler.
1 pint fresh strawberries
2 large whole eggs
4 large egg yolks
3/4 cup sugar
Zest and juice of 2 medium lemons
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup sweet Riesling, Muscat, Sauternes or other sweet dessert wine
Garnish: Mint Sprigs and a crisp little cookie, if desired
Stem and arrange the strawberries attractively in 6 shallow bowls or soup plates.
For the zabaglione, in the top of a double boiler combine the rest of the ingredients and whisk until the mixture is light and thick. Place over simmering water and whisk vigorously until mixture has tripled in volume and is thick and light in color. Total cooking and whisking time will be about 4 minutes. Be careful not to scramble the eggs! Remove from heat, spoon around the berries and serve immediately garnished with mint and a cookie.
John Ash © 2022