I have to confess that I love best the foods of cold weather, especially soups and stews. No doubt a holdover from growing up in the mountains of Colorado. So, an obvious question: What’s the difference between the two? Go online and there’s not much to distinguish the two: Soups generally have more broth/liquid while stews, according to Alan Davidson in the Oxford Companion to Food, is thicker, more opaque and is also a verb, which means to simmer in a closed dish. Not much help there.
The term “soups/stews” are often used interchangeably and it’s a vast universe. So here are some of my favorites for these frosty days from several cuisines. Call them whatever you like!
“SOUP DU JOUR” (SOUP OF THE DAY)
Serves 4 – 6
I had to include this because it’s so close to my heart and training! When I first learned to cook professionally in France and elsewhere “Soup du Jour” was part of every working-class restaurant menu. The “soup” was almost always a basic potato and leek soup to which the chef added the “du Jour” which was whatever was on hand and needed to be used up such as mushrooms, greens, herbs, cream, meats, fish, etc. This basic leek and potato is a great example of a “building block” soup – – a place to start with endless possibilities.
Traditionally this peasant soup was made simply by simmering the vegetables in water so that you’d get their delicate fresh taste. I like to use chicken or vegetable stock because to add a little more complexity. You could certainly add rich ingredients like cream but try it first at its simplest without the cream. I’ve included a few variations following the basic recipe. You have the choice here of either leaving the cut vegetables in the broth as is or partially or fully pureeing the soup to give it a “creamy” texture.
1-pound leeks (2 or 3 large) white parts only
1-1/2 pounds russet potatoes (about 3 medium)
2 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
4 tablespoons butter (1/2 stick)
6 cups chicken or vegetable stock
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Cut off the root end of the leeks and the tops where the color begins to turn dark green and discard. Cut leeks in half lengthwise and then crosswise ¼ inch thick. You should have about 4 cups. Place in a colander and rinse vigorously to remove any dirt, which often lurks in the layers. Peel and rinse the potatoes and cut into ½ inch cubes. You should have 4 – 5 cups. Over moderate heat melt the butter and add the leeks, potatoes and garlic. Cook stirring until leeks just begin to color, about 5 – 6 minutes. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer for 20 minutes or so or until potatoes are tender. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Variations:
Cream of Leek and Potato – Add 1 cup dry white wine or vermouth with the broth when cooking the soup and stir in 1 cup or so of heavy cream or crème fraiche at the end just before serving.
Vichyssoise – Same soup as above but puree and chill before serving. Top with 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives.
Spinach, Watercress or Sorrel – To either version (with or without cream) add 1 quart lightly packed tender leaves at the end and cook until just wilted.
Feel free to add fresh herbs such as chopped parsley, basil or dill; cooked vegetables of any kind including peas, corn, carrots, zucchini as well fresh or sun-dried tomatoes. You get the idea. The basic soup base without the cream can be made in larger batches and frozen for up to 3 months. Great to have on hand for a quick supper when you come home and need a little comfort!
BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP
Serves 8
A delicious warming soup for cold weather. You can make it a meal in a bowl by topping with roasted mushrooms, grilled shrimp or whatever you like.
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 cups chopped yellow onions
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1-1/2 tablespoons good quality curry powder such as Madras or to taste
3 cups or so rich chicken or vegetable stock
3 cups roasted butternut squash*
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1 tablespoon honey, or to taste
1 cup crème fraiche or heavy cream
3 tablespoons dry sherry, or to taste
Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
Garnish possibilities: Toasted pepitas (pumpkin seeds) or almonds, chopped chives and a drizzle of fruity olive or toasted nut oil, if desired
In a deep saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat. Add the onions and garlic and sauté until very soft but not brown. Add the curry and sauté for a minute or two longer or until fragrant. Add the stock and the squash and transfer to a blender or food processor and puree, in batches if necessary.
Return mixture to the saucepan and add the nutmeg, honey and crème fraîche. Whisk to combine and bring to a simmer. Stir in sherry and correct the seasoning with salt and pepper. Thin if desired with additional stock.
To serve: ladle the soup into warm soup bowls and top with garnish of your choice.
*To roast the squash, cut a 1-1/2-pound squash in half, scoop out seeds, season with salt and pepper and roast cut side up in a preheated 375-degree oven for 30 minutes or until flesh is soft. Scoop flesh out of shell and discard shell.
CALDO TLALPEÑO (Chicken and Garbanzo stew/soup)
Serves 6 to 8
Tlapan is part of Mexico City’s megalopolis though once it was a village close by. You might want to put it on your bucket list. According to legend, in the early 1900’s this was a tram stop where vendors sold food. This soup became very popular though I can’t find out who introduced it. Tlalpan for this recipe became Tlalpeño. I say “hooray” for all those street vendors/central markets/pop ups around the world that keep us in touch with
“the food of the people”.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound (4 cups) peeled and thinly sliced white onion
1 tablespoon peeled and thinly sliced garlic
2 teaspoons cumin seed, crushed
1/4 teaspoon red chile flakes or to taste
2 quarts chicken stock, homemade or canned/boxed
1-pound (2 medium) bone in/skin on chicken breasts
2 medium carrots, peeled and diced (2 cups)
2 cups seeded and diced roma tomatoes or 1-15 ounce can petite diced tomatoes
2 (or maybe more) canned chipotles in adobo, chopped
2 small zucchinis, sliced thickly (2 cups or so)
2 cups garbanzo beans, 1-15 ounce can rinsed and drained or home cooked
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 cups cooked long grain rice Accompaniments:
Lime wedges
Avocado slices
Cilantro sprigs
Finely diced queso panela
Heat oil in a soup pot over moderate heat. Add onion, garlic, cumin seed, chile flakes and cook until onion is soft but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add broth and chicken breast, bring to a boil and immediately reduce to a simmer. Cover until chicken is just cooked thru, about 15 minutes. Remove chicken, place on a platter and let cool.
Remove as much fat as you can from the cooking liquids then add carrots, tomatoes and chipotles and cook for 10 minutes or so or until carrots are tender. Meanwhile chop or shred the chicken discarding bones and skin. Add zucchini and cook a couple of minutes longer. Add garbanzos and chicken meat and heat thru. Season to your taste with salt and pepper.
To serve: Add rice to warm bowls. Ladle soup over rice. Garnish with any or all of the accompaniments.
SOUTHEAST ASIAN INSPIRED OYSTER STEW
Serves 4 to 6
Jarred and refrigerated shucked fresh oysters are widely available and of course a lot cheaper/easier than shucking your own. Size generally refers to the dimension of the shell but can vary according to where the oysters come from. You want nice one or two bite size oysters for this recipe. Look for smalls.
1 tablespoon vegetable oil such as coconut or olive
¼ cup peeled and sliced shallots
2 teaspoons yellow or red curry paste*, or to taste
2 cups fish or chicken stock
I 19-ounce can unsweetened coconut milk
1 tablespoon fish sauce **
1 teaspoon brown or palm sugar
1 pint shucked small or medium fresh oysters
1 cup (3 ounces) julienned snow peas
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice, or to taste
Cilantro sprigs for garnish
Heat the oil in a deep saucepan or soup pot over moderate heat. Add shallots and cook for a couple of minutes until softened but not brown. Add curry paste and cook stirring constantly until fragrant.
Add stock, coconut milk, fish sauce and sugar and bring to a simmer. Taste and adjust seasoning to your taste. Add snow peas and oysters with their liquor and cook for a couple of minutes until oysters are just beginning to curl. Don’t overcook.
Stir in lime juice and ladle into warm bowls.
*Prepared curry pastes are widely available especially in Asian markets or on-line. Mae Ploy is my favorite brand.
**Every Asian cuisine has their own version of Fish Sauce. My favorite is Red Boat which has become very available in Asian markets
KOREAN KIMCHI SOFT TOFU STEW
Serves 4
Known in Korean as Soondubu Jjigae, this one of my favorite go-to, healthy dishes. Chile garlic paste, soft tofu and kimchi are available in many markets but of course always in Asian markets.
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 medium onion, peeled and sliced
1 teaspoon Korean or other Asian chile garlic paste, or to taste
2 cups zucchini cut in large dice
1 tablespoon finely minced ginger or to taste
3/4 cup shimeji mushrooms lower stems cut and discarded (optional)
1-1/2 cups or so cabbage or daikon kimchi, coarsely chopped
3 cups or so vegetable or chicken broth
1 teaspoon soy sauce or to taste
6 – 8 ounces silken tofu, drained
4 large eggs
2 medium scallions, both white and green parts thinly sliced at an angle
Steamed white or brown rice, for serving
Heat the oil in a heavy bottomed soup pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until just beginning to soften.
Add the chile paste, stir to combine, and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the zucchini, ginger and mushrooms if using and stir to combine. Add the kimchi and cook, stirring occasionally, until simmering, about 2 minutes. Add the broth and soy sauce and bring to a boil.
Using a large serving spoon, add the tofu by very large spoonfuls, taking care not to break up the tofu into little bits. Gently press down on the tofu with the back of the spoon so that the broth is mostly covering it. Simmer until the tofu is heated through and the flavors have melded, about 3 minutes. Taste and add more kimchi, broth and/or soy sauce to your taste.
Meanwhile poach the eggs in simmering water to which you’ve added a little white vinegar. Whites should be set but yolks still runny, about 3 minutes. Divide the stew among 4 bowls, being careful not to break up the tofu. Top with the eggs and sprinkle scallions over. Serve immediately with rice on the side.
“PEPOSO” ITALIAN SLOW COOKED BEEF STEW
Serves 6 – 8
Based on an old Italian recipe, it is named because it uses a lot of black pepper. It’s a simple recipe and in the long slow cooking, gives the meat great flavor and texture and mellows the spiciness of the pepper. Start this in the morning and your house will smell delicious all day long! This is the time to drag it out your slow cooker. Traditionally this was served over day old crusty bread topped with the braising liquid. You could also serve it with potatoes (mashed or roasted), polenta (as I’ve done here) or pasta. I’ve cut the beef up, but you could also leave it in a whole piece. Recipe calls for fresh cracked pepper, which is best done at the last moment. Use a coffee grinder, mortar and pestle if you have one or the bottom of a heavy cast iron pan rolled around on whole peppercorns all work great.
3 pounds lean stewing beef, cut in 2-inch square portions
3 tablespoons olive oil
10 whole cloves of garlic, peeled and left whole
1 or 2 bay leaves
2 tablespoons or so cracked black pepper (not ground)
4 cups canned whole tomatoes, roughly crushed by hand San Marzano preferred
2 cups hearty red wine such as Cabernet or Zinfandel
Kosher salt to taste
Garnish: Gremolata (recipe follows)
Brown the beef quickly in the oil in a large heavy Dutch oven or pot, preferably ceramic or enamel. Pour off fat and place all remaining ingredients except salt into the pot. Cover tightly and place in a preheated 275-degree oven for 8 hours. Alternately you could do this on the stovetop over very low heat or in a slow cooker on low. The idea is to keep the mixture to a very gentle simmer. Cook until meat is very tender. Remove meat to a deep platter and keep warm. Degrease cooking liquid if needed and add salt to taste. Return meat to braising liquid and serve topped with a sprinkling of gremolata.
Gremolata
Makes about 1/2 cup
This is fast to do with a mini food processor or better by hand.
3 large cloves garlic
1 cup packed parsley leaves
2 – 3 tablespoons finely grated lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon or so salt
Pulse the garlic, parsley and lemon to finely chop it. Be careful not to turn it into a paste. It should be light and airy. Add salt to taste.
HABA BEAN SOUP OR STEW
Makes a generous 8 cups serving 6 – 8
Haba beans are peeled (saves lots of hand work) and dried fava beans and are nutritional powerhouses. You can find them at Mexican and Middle Eastern markets or on-line. I get mine from Purcell Mountain Farms www.purcellmountainfarms.com
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 cups (2 small) finely chopped onions
2 tablespoons finely chopped garlic
1 cup chopped celery or fennel
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon crushed fennel seed
1/4 teaspoon red chile flakes
2 cups dried haba beans, rinsed and soaked for 4 hours or more and drained
6 cups tasty chicken or vegetable stock
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 – 2 tablespoons dried sumac powder or 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Freshly grated aged goat cheese or parmesan and celery leaves to garnish
Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a deep soup pot and add the onions, garlic and celery and sauté over moderate heat until crisp tender. Add the cumin, fennel seed and chile flakes and continue to sauté for 2 – 3 minutes until spices become fragrant.
Add the soaked habas and stock and bring to a boil. Lower heat to a simmer, cover and cook for 25 – 30 minutes or until beans are very tender and falling apart. Cool slightly and puree mixture with an immersion or regular blender. (If using the latter be careful since hot liquids expand mightily. Fill blender jar only half full, use lowest speed and cover top with a clean towel rather than the lid to allow for expansion.) Season to your taste with salt and pepper.
To serve: Sprinkle sumac on top of soup or alternately stir in fresh lemon juice into each serving. Drizzle remaining olive oil around and finish with a grating of cheese and celery leaves, if using.
POBLANO, TOMATILLO AND SHRIMP CHOWDER WITH POSOLE
Serves 6 to 8
This is a “meal in a bowl”. The flavor of the poblano chile is even better if you charroast it before adding it in. Canned hominy (posole) is fine but if you can, cook your own from the dry corn, the flavor and texture is much better. A good source for dry hominy (or posole as it’s called in Mexico) is Rancho Gordo who have a version that cooks more quickly than traditional, www.ranchogordo.com.
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium white onions, halved and sliced thinly lengthwise
2 large stemmed and seeded fresh poblano chiles, cut into large dice
1 tablespoon finely slivered garlic
1/2 teaspoon each crushed whole fennel and cumin seeds
2 teaspoons dried oregano (Mexican preferably)
2 cups husked and quartered fresh tomatillos
2 cups diced and seeded canned tomatoes, preferably fire roasted
7 cups rich chicken, corn or vegetable stock
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
8 ounces medium (21 – 24 size) peeled and deveined raw shrimp
1 cup cooked and drained white hominy (posole)
1/4 cup coarsely chopped cilantro
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Garnish: Sliced avocado, cilantro sprigs, lime wedges
In a heavy bottomed soup pot heat the olive oil over moderately high heat. Add the onions, poblanos, garlic, fennel, cumin, and oregano. Sauté until onions are soft but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatillos, tomatoes and stock. Simmer gently for 6 to 8 minutes. Season to your taste with salt, pepper and lime juice.
To serve: Stir in the shrimps, hominy, cilantro and cinnamon and simmer for 2 minutes to just cook the shrimp through (they should be slightly translucent in the middle). Ladle into warm soup bowls, garnish with the avocado slices, cilantro sprigs and lime wedges.
All photos by John Burgess of Santa Rosa Press Democrat John Ash PD 2023