Crepes as we know them originated in Brittany in France. They are thin pancakes made in dishes both sweet and savory and filled or topped with all kinds of preparations. Thin pancakes also show up in other cuisines especially Asian. What would Mu Shu Pork be without them? Makes sense that such a simple preparation of flour and water would take on universal appeal.

When you visit France creperies are everywhere. In part because they are inexpensive street food and also because they are delicious. They have migrated to America and now successful chain restaurants feature them because of their appeal and simplicity.

In France, the crêpe is celebrated on February 2nd. It is known as le jour des crêpes, literally translated to mean the day of crepe. They have an entire day dedicated to this sophisticated pancake. February 2nd is also known as La Chandeleur, marking the return of daylight and the fall of winter. Families gather around over a large dinner of crêpes to celebrate their culture and the new season.

In France crepes are traditionally made with buckwheat flour, which has a primal, nutty flavor and texture. Despite its name, buckwheat isn’t actually a form of wheat; they’re not even related. Buckwheat is technically a seed, according to the Whole Grains Council, although it’s also called a pseudocereal, not quite a grain but similar to one. Buckwheat is naturally gluten-free and generally safe to eat for people with celiac disease or a gluten sensitivity.

Buckwheat’s advantage is that it grows in areas that that often have harsh, unforgiving climates (that describes Brittany if you’ve been there). Though it can be used in many recipes that call for wheat flour, it doesn’t work so well in bread making where typically the choice is to mix it with wheat flour. Buckwheat does show up in many Asian recipes also that we (read me) love, including soba noodles and porridge. Alan Davidson in the Oxford Companion to Food notes that the simplest way of eating buckwheat is something like Italian polenta. Gently boiled and when softened, seasoned with soy sauce and ginger.

Today most crepes are mostly made with wheat flour, but I’d always suggest the addition of buckwheat flour if you can to honor its French roots. It’s available online and from our friends at Bobs Red Mill among others. It’s somewhat perishable so keep it in your freezer.

Crêpes come in two forms: sweet and savory. The savory crêpes, known as galettes, are made with at least some buckwheat flour (up to 1/2) and traditionally contain egg, cheese and ham.

The sugar crêpe, however, today uses only wheat flower instead of the traditional buckwheat. Staying true to tradition, sugar crêpes are normally filled with sugar, butter, lemon and garnished with fresh fruit

The most famous sweet recipe is Crepes Suzette which follows. Let’s start with Sweet
Crepes which are a no brainer for Valentine’s Day. Here is the basic recipe for all crepes. For sweet crepes you can add a couple of teaspoons of sugar. For savory, omit the sugar and add 1/2 teaspoon salt. Letting the batter rest before making the crepe is important because it lets the flour hydrate.

Basic Crepe Recipe
Makes 12 or so
1 cup all-purpose flour or half and half with buckwheat flour
3 large eggs
1 1/4 cups milk
3 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled
2 teaspoons sugar or 1/2 teaspoon salt
Neutral oil or oil spray, for the pan

In a blender, combine the milk, eggs, flour, butter, and salt or sugar until smooth. Be sure to scrape sides of blender jar to free up any flour. Cover and store the mixture in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 day.

Lightly grease a medium nonstick skillet and heat over medium heat.
Once heated, add 1/4 cup of crepe batter, swirling the skillet so it spreads evenly across the bottom of the pan.

Cook until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes, then use a spatula and your fingers to flip the crepe, allowing the other side to cook for about 1 to 2 minutes, or until cooked through. Transfer to a plate and repeat with the remaining batter. If making ahead separate crepes with squares of waxed or parchment paper.

Choosing a Crepe pan

There are steel crepe pans that you can buy but, like cast iron pans, they need to be seasoned so the crepe doesn’t’ stick. Best solution is a good non-stick 8 or 9-inch pan which you can also use for omelets and frico.

SWEET CREPES

VALENTINE’S DAY SWEET CREPES

VALENTINE’S DAY SWEET CREPES

Serves 4

A simple recipe that uses vertically sliced strawberries whose shape suggests a heart. You could also add a spoonful of Nutella to the filling and top with a spoon of sour cream or crème fraiche. Use your imagination!

8 crepes (see recipe above)
Powdered sugar
Lemon wedges to squeeze over
2 cups stemmed and sliced strawberries

Warm the crepes in a 225-degree oven for a few minutes. Fold or roll and dust with a generous amount of powdered sugar and squeeze lemon over, Garnish with sliced strawberries and serve.

LEMON CURD CREPES WITH BLUEBERRY SAUCE

Serves 6 – 8

The curd recipe below makes more than you’ll need for this recipe but now you’ll have some on hand to spread on scones, etc.!

For the Lemon Curd
Makes about 3 cups

1 cup fresh lemon juice
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon cornstarch
3 whole eggs
3 egg yolks
1/2 teaspoon salt
6 ounces unsalted butter, cut in small bits
1 tablespoon finely grated zest

Whisk first six ingredients together and strain. Place mixture in a stainless steel bowl over (not on) simmering water and whisk in butter and zest. Continue whisking until mixture thickens, 5 – 7 minutes. Off heat, whisk for a minute more to cool slightly and then place in sterilized jars. Cover and store refrigerated for up to 3 weeks.

For the Blueberry Sauce
Makes about 1-1/2 cups

3 cups fresh or frozen IQF blueberries
1/3 cup powdered sugar, or to taste plus more for dusting
3 tablespoons red wine or water
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

Add all to a saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes stirring occasionally until berries are soft but still hold most of their shape. Serve warm or cold. Store covered in refrigerator for up to 1 week.

To serve: Lay crepes slightly apart on a clean counter, pale side up. Place 2 tablespoons or so of the curd on the bottom half of each crepe. Fold top half over to make a half moon and then fold once more to make a triangle and enclose the filling. Place in a single layer on a lightly buttered baking sheet and warm crepes through in a preheated 350-degree oven, 5 – 7 minutes. Arrange 2 filled crepes on each plate, spoon sauce around and dust with powdered sugar. Serve immediately.

Note: you can also forego heating the crepes and serve at room temperature.

CREPES SUZETTE
Serves 4

This is one of those desserts that seems exotic and complicated. Not so. Its roots are in French Haute cuisine. It was a very special dessert in the 1970s and beyond mostly, I think, because it was dramatically flamed tableside. You can make the crepes in advance or use store-bought versions, which are good. I’ve included a recipe for homemade crepes if you want to make your own which are easy.
1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
Finely grated zest of 1 orange
10 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/3 cup sugar, preferably superfine
8 crepes, homemade (see the following recipe) or store bought
1/3 cup Grand Marnier, Cointreau or Triple Sec liqueur

In a small saucepan, combine orange juice, zest, butter and sugar. Place over high heat and bring to boil; reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer until syrupy, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

Fold crepes into quarters and arrange beautifully in a nonreactive skillet or other shallow flameproof pan. Pour warm syrup on top (reserve syrup pan), and place over low heat until crepes are warm, about 5 minutes.

Warm liqueur in the pan that held orange syrup. When crepes are hot, pour liqueur on top; carefully touch a flame to the surface to light it. Avert your face. Serve immediately, spooning crepes and sauce onto each of 4 warm plates.

For homemade crepes (makes 8 to 12)
You can make the crepes in advance. Place between sheets of baking parchment or waxed paper. Wrap well in plastic and refrigerate if making ahead. Can be made 3 days ahead.

1 cup all-purpose flour
Pinch of salt
1 large egg
1-1/4 cups milk
2 tablespoons melted and cooled butter
2 teaspoons orange-flavored liqueur such as Grand Marnier, Cointreau or Triple Sec
Vegetable oil or spray for a non-stick pan

In a blender combine flour, salt, egg, milk, butter and liqueur to make a smooth batter. Scrape down sides if needed. The batter should be the consistency of heavy cream. Add more milk if necessary to thin.

Lightly oil an 8-inch crepe pan or nonstick skillet. Place over medium-high heat until well heated. Pour a scant 1/4 cup of batter into the pan. Turn pan to coat bottom as evenly as you can. When pancake has a bubbly surface, after about 30 seconds, carefully flip it with a spatula and let it brown again for 20 to 30 seconds. Transfer finished crepe to a large plate. The first crepe is generally a “tester” and may tear. You’ll just have to eat it if so!

Repeat until batter is gone, reoiling pan every other crepe. Layer finished crepes between baking parchment or waxed paper sheets. Allow to cool, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until needed.

MY GRANDMOTHER’S CHEESE BLINTZES

Serves 6

The crepes for the blintzes can be made a couple of days ahead. Stack them on a plate, cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate. You can also make the blintzes completely ahead and store refrigerated, well covered with plastic wrap for up to 3 days.

Cheese filling:
1-1/4 pounds drained whole milk ricotta or farmers cheese
1 large egg beaten
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 tablespoons sugar, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons finely grated orange zest (use a micro plane)
1/3 cup chopped golden raisins or dried cherries

12 crepes
2 tablespoons each of neutral vegetable oil and butter

Optional suggested toppings
Crème fraiche, sour cream or slightly sweetened Greek yogurt
Fresh seasonal fruits of any kind
Powdered Sugar
Powdered Cocoa
Maple Syrup
Fruit Syrups
Reduced Balsamic Vinegar
Drops of Lemon Juice

Combine the filling ingredients in a bowl and set aside. When ready to serve, fill the crepes with a heaping tablespoon of the cheese filling then fold the top and bottom, followed by the sides over the filling to enclose and make a compact package. Store seam side down in the refrigerator until ready to cook.

Place a skillet over medium heat for a couple of minutes. Add a bit of oil and melt in a bit of butter and fry the filled blintzes for 5 minutes or so on each side until they are golden and crisp. You may need to do this in batches. Serve warm with any of the suggested toppings.

SAVORY CREPES

CREPES WITH HAM, CHEESE, AND FRIED EGGS

Serves 2

This ingredient combination is a classic with crepes. You can make plain crepes up to three days ahead of time and store them in the refrigerator wrapped in plastic.

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, divided
4 large eggs
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 cooked basic crepes (recipe above)
4 ounces grated Gruyère or other good melting cheese, divided
4 thin slices good ham or prosciutto, divided
Chopped fresh chives, for garnish

Melt 1 teaspoon butter in a an 8 or 9-inch nonstick or well-seasoned cast iron or carbon steel skillet over medium heat. Add eggs and cook until whites are set but yolks are still runny. Season to taste with salt and pepper and transfer to a warm plate.

Melt 1/2 teaspoon butter in same skillet and add a crepe. Spread 1-ounce grated cheese evenly in center of crepe, top with ham then set a fried egg on top. Fold sides of crepe in to cover egg, leaving egg yolk exposed. Cook, swirling, until crepe is crisped on bottom, then transfer to a warmed plate. Repeat with remaining crepes, cheese, ham, and eggs. Garnish with chives and serve.

CREAMED CHICKEN CREPES

Serves 4

This simple recipe is adapted from Craig Claiborne and Pierre Franey who wrote for years for the New York Times. You could also add some sautéed chopped mushroom to deepen the flavor. All kinds of things could be substituted for the chicken including bay scallops or shrimp, smoked trout or mackerel, roasted or grilled vegetables. You get the idea.

8 savory crepes For the filling:
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
1cup rich chicken broth
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon dry sherry (optional)
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Big pinch cayenne pepper
3 cups shredded cooked chicken
Grated gruyere or Toma cheese for garnish

Warm the crepes in a 225° F oven.

Make the filling: Melt the butter in a saucepan and add the flour, stirring with a wire whisk. When blended, add the broth and sherry, stirring rapidly with the whisk. Let the mixture simmer, stirring often, about 8 minutes. Add the cream, sherry, salt, pepper, nutmeg and cayenne to taste.

Add the chicken and reheat gently. Divide filling among the 8 crepes and fold or roll into neat packages. Top with grated cheese and serve immediately.

CRESPELLE WITH RICOTTA AND BASIL

Serves 4

Crespelle are the Italian version of French crepes. Found in Tuscany among other places in Italy they make an easy and delicious alternative to pasta. The quality of the ricotta is all important. I like the sheep or cow’s milk versions from Bellwether Farms.

1 16- ounce tub of whole milk ricotta
1-1/4 cups freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil
Salt and Freshly ground black pepper to taste
3 cups marinara sauce, either homemade or store bought
8 crepes or crespella

Place ricotta in a strainer over a large bowl and allow to drain for at least 3 hours or overnight in the refrigerator.

In a large bowl combine the drained ricotta with 3/4 cup of the Parmigiano, the basil and salt and pepper to taste and mix well.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Ladle 1 cup of the tomato sauce into a 13 x 9-inch baking dish. Place two heaping tablespoons of the ricotta mixture into the middle of each crespella and fold to form a half circle. Fold in half again to make a triangle. Place crespelle into the dish and repeat with remaining crespelle slightly overlapping them. Pour the remaining 2 cups of tomato sauce over and around and sprinkle the remaining parmigiano over. Bake until lightly browned and bubbling, about 20 minutes. Also, can be refrigerated covered with plastic and baked the next day.

VIETNAMESE CRÊPES

Serves 4

Known as Bánh xèo (bahn SAY-oh), this is a popular street snack in Vietnam. Banh means “cake” and xeo refers to the sizzling sound made when the crepe is cooked. Typically served with fresh lettuce, basil, mint and nuoc cham dipping sauce. Recipe for the sauce is included below. Be sure to use Asian white rice flour which is very fine. Regular supermarket rice flour is too coarse.

For the crêpe batter:
1 cup white rice flour
1/2 teaspoon white sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 cup coconut milk
2/3 cup water or as needed

For the filling:
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided, or as needed
2 tablespoons minced shallot or green onion
2 cloves garlic, minced, or more to taste
3/4 pound 21 – 25 size shrimp, peeled, deveined and halved lengthwise
2 tablespoons fish sauce, or more to taste
Salt to taste
6 ounces mung bean sprouts
4 lettuce leaves, or as needed
Fresh basil sprigs (preferably Thai basil)
Fresh mint sprigs

Make the crêpe batter: Mix rice flour, sugar, salt, and turmeric together in a large bowl. Whisk in coconut milk until thick. Slowly beat in water until it reaches the consistency of heavy cream adding more water if needed. Let sit for 30 minutes for flour to rehydrate.

Make the filling: Heat 1 1/2 tablespoons oil in a large 9-to-10-inch skillet (preferably nonstick) over medium-high heat. Add shallot and garlic; cook and stir until softened but not browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Add shrimp; sauté until cooked through and just opaque, 2 to 3 minutes. Season with fish sauce and salt. Transfer filling to a bowl.

Preheat the oven to 225° degrees F. Wipe out the skillet and reheat over medium heat. Add half of the remaining 1/2 tablespoon oil. Stir crêpe batter and pour 1/2 cup into the hot skillet, swirling to coat the bottom. Lay 3 or 4 cooked shrimp on the bottom half of the crêpe. Top with a small handful of bean sprouts. Cover and cook until batter looks set and edges start to brown, minutes. Gently fold crêpe over and slide onto an oven-safe plate.

Place filled crêpe in the preheated oven to keep warm. Repeat with remaining oil, batter, shrimp, and bean sprouts. Serve crêpes with lettuce leaves. Break off pieces of crêpe and roll them up in lettuce to eat along with basil and mint. Serve with Nuoc Cham on the side for dipping.

Nuoc cham dipping sauce
Makes about 1 cup

1/2 cup fresh lime juice
4 tablespoons Asian fish sauce, Red Boat preferred
1 teaspoon minced fresh red chile or to taste
2 teaspoons finely minced garlic
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
5 tablespoons sugar or to taste
1 tablespoon cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped

Combine all ingredients and stir until sugar is dissolved. Let stand at least 30 minutes before serving for flavors to develop. Adjust salt/sweet/tart/hot flavors to your taste.