You might ask why I’ve included a separate lesson on cold soups. A couple of reasons:
First, learning to make soup is one of the most basic and satisfying things you can do. It’s really hard to screw them up, they can almost always be “rescued” and they lend themselves to all kinds of tinkering with both flavors and ingredients. I try to always include a soup or two in classes that I do because they are great confidence builders, especially for cooks who are just starting off.
The world of cold soups introduces us to what I would call the “seduction of temperature”. Cold foods have their own special qualities and to my mind are not just for warm days. In multi-course meals I always try to have one cold dish to offset hot ones. Because many of us tend to think of soup as something served warm, serving it cold challenges our conventional expectation and I think both wakes up and seduces the palate in a most interesting way.
Like the hot soups in lesson XX any of these soups could be the meal and for me they often are. Maybe add a little salad of greens on the side and I’m set. The fact that they are cold means we’ve made them ahead so when mealtime comes all you need to do is serve them up. I love to take cold soups on picnics because they are easy to transport and serve and again something that we ordinarily don’t think of as picnic fare.
A key thing to remember with cold soups and cold foods in general is that if you are cooking them before chilling, the seasoning when warm will be muted when the food chills down. Always be sure to taste the dish after it’s chilled to adjust seasoning. Usually it will have to be increased a little to have the same impact as when it was warm.
The following are some of my favorite cold soups, many of which can also be served warm. Once you complete this lesson and the lesson on warm soups you’ll have a great repertoire from which to venture off and create your own special recipes. I begin with two of my favorite quick soups both of which use tofu to give them a creamy rich texture without the saturated fat of cream. I can hear it now “TOFU . .YIKES!”. If you haven’t done lesson XX on soy and tofu yet then this should convince you that tofu can be your friend.
OVEN ROASTED TOMATO AND TOFU SOUP
Makes a generous quart serving 4 – 6
This is a very simple and quick (if you’ve roasted the tomatoes ahead). It’s delicious as a cold soup and also room temperature as well as warm. A triple hitter! Oven roasting tomatoes concentrates their flavor and sweetness which most of the time is essential with the tasteless supermarket fresh tomatoes available to most of us. A lot more about this in lesson XX. Its something I do all the time to have on hand for sauces, salads, sandwiches and this soup. This soup is great all by itself or make it the center of a meal by spooning it around some chilled cooked shrimp or maybe sliced avocado with a fresh salsa. Also, tomatoes charred on the grill or in a skillet are an interesting alternative to the oven dried.
2 cups (about 10) oven roasted roma style tomatoes (method follows)
6 ounces (usually 1/2 block) silken tofu
1-1/2 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1 teaspoon hot sauce such as sriracha, or to your taste
Salt
Extra Virgin Olive oil
Chopped fresh herbs of your choice such as chives, basil, tarragon or a combination
Add the first three ingredients to a blender and blend till smooth. Strain if desired (I like it unstrained) and add hot sauce and salt to your taste. Serve warm or chilled with a drizzle of a peppery extra virgin olive oil and a sprinkling of fresh herbs. Thin if desired with additional broth.
Oven roasting tomatoes:
You can either roast tomatoes at a low temperature as we do in lesson XX or at a higher temperature that will accomplish the task a little quicker. It’s interesting however that the flavor is a bit different with the two temperatures. Try both and see which you prefer.
Cut the tomatoes in half and with the handle of a teaspoon or a finger gently remove the seeds. Place tomatoes cut side up on a baking sheet and drizzle with a little olive oil and season lightly with salt and freshly ground pepper. Low Heat Method: Place in a preheated 225 degree oven for 4 – 6 hours or until tomatoes are somewhat shriveled. High Heat Method: Place tomatoes in a preheated 375 degree oven for 40 minutes or so or until somewhat shriveled and just beginning to color.
CORN, ROASTED CAULIFLOWER AND TOFU SOUP
Makes a quart or so serving 4 – 6
This easy soup is good both warm and chilled and lends itself to all kinds of additions. You don’t have to do the roasted cauliflower but it adds a flavor dimension that is interesting and delicious. My family never really liked steamed or boiled cauliflower but they it oven roasted where it takes on an entirely different sweet, nutty flavor. Its terrific of course in this soup but roasted cauliflower also makes a great salad, addition to pasta or served as is as part of an antipasti plate. At the end of the recipe I’ve included some other ideas for roasted veggies that you could add to the soup in place of the cauliflower and also some ideas for other ways to flavor the soup.
3 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1/3 cup chopped green onion, white part only
2 cups fresh or frozen sweet corn kernels
6 ounces (usually 1/2 block) silken tofu
1 packed cup chopped roasted cauliflower (method follows)
2 teaspoons cider or rice vinegar or to your taste
Salt
Drops of your favorite hot sauce such as sriracha
Toasted nut oil such as walnut or extra virgin olive oil
Heat the stock in a saucepan and add the onion and corn. Bring to a boil and cook until vegetables are tender, about 4 minutes. Off heat, cool for a couple of minutes and add to a blender along with the tofu and cauliflower. Puree until smooth. Depending on sweetness of corn add the vinegar to balance the flavor along with salt and hot sauce. All of these are added to your taste. Strain through a medium mesh strainer pressing down on the solids. Serve warm or chilled with a drizzle of a flavorful nut or olive oil. Soup can be thinned with additional stock if desired.
Other flavoring ideas for soup: Add a little (2 teaspoons) chopped ginger or Chinese dry hot mustard (1 teaspoon) to the corn when you cook it. Also a big pinch of saffron will add color and interesting flavor.
Other roasted vegetables to add to soup: Instead of cauliflower add roasted carrots or butternut squash can be used. Roast following the method described below.
Roasting cauliflower:
It’s very simple and again you can do it either at low or high temperature. For the latter, slice the cauliflower from the top down through the stem end in thick ½ inch slices. Arrange in a single layer on a basking sheet that has been lightly oiled with olive oil. Drizzle a little more olive oil over the top and season lightly with salt and freshly ground pepper. Place in a reheated 375 degree oven and roast for 35 minutes of so or until bottoms of cauliflower are golden brown. Remove and store covered in refrigerator for up to 5 days.
GAZPACHO
Makes about 3 quarts serving 10 – 12
The traditional recipe for Spanish Gazpacho has you pureeing all the vegetables along with some bread to add body and texture. I prefer mine chunkier more like a chowder and, instead of incorporating the bread in the soup, I like to make it into garlicky croutons to garnish the soup. You could make this the whole meal by adding some cooked shrimp or my favorite, lobster. Other vegetables are fair game for addition too like a little crisp jicama or young zucchini.
5 cups tomato juice
3 cups rich chicken, fish or vegetable stock
3 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 cups peeled, seeded and diced English or Lemon cucumber (about 12 ounces)
1/2 cup fine chopped red onion
2-1/2 cups seeded and diced red and/or yellow tomato
1 head poached or roasted garlic, finely chopped (see page xxx)
2 teaspoons seeded and minced serrano chile, or to taste
1 each medium yellow and red bell pepper and poblano chile, charred, peeled and diced
Fresh lime juice to taste
2 – 3 tablespoons fruity olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Garnish: Crisp garlic croutons and chopped cilantro and/or mint
Combine all the ingredients in a non-reactive container and chill for at least 2 hours for flavors to marry. Taste, then season with salt, pepper and additional lime juice. Serve with croutons and chopped fresh herbs. Can be made 2 days ahead and stored refrigerated
ZUCCHINI SOUP WITH CINNAMON, CUMIN AND BUTTERMILK
Serves 4
This is a quick, and simple soup. It’s a wonderful base to which you can add all manner of things including cooked shrimp, sautéed mushrooms, spring peas, etc. I often will drizzle on a little fragrant nut oil as a garnish. (I like those from California Press, see Glossary). Serve the soup chilled or at room temperature. We don’t always think about room temperature soups but it’s a nice variation on a warm day.
1 pound zucchini, ends trimmed
2-1/2 cups rich chicken or vegetable broth
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
1/2 teaspoon seeded and minced serrano chile, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon fennel seed
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1-1/2 cups good quality buttermilk
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
Garnish: Chopped fresh cilantro or mint and lime or lemon wedges
Chop zucchini in large chunks. Add broth to a soup pot, bring to a boil and add zucchini. Reduce heat, and simmer, covered, for 4 to 5 minutes, or until zucchini is barely tender but still bright green. Off heat and cool.
Meanwhile, heat oil in a small, non-stick frying pan. Add onion, chile, fennel, cinnamon and cumin, and sauté until onion is soft but not brown and spices are fragrant.
Put both mixtures into a food processor and pulse until well chopped but still with some texture. Of course you can puree completely if you want but I prefer mine with a little texture. Pour into a bowl and stir in buttermilk and season to taste with salt and pepper. Chill for at least 2 hours. Serve garnished with a sprinkling of cilantro and added drops of lemon or lime juice to taste.
COLD GREEN PEA SOUP
Serves 4
This is a simple beautifully green soup in which you can make all kinds of substitutions such as broccoli or asparagus for some or all of the peas, watercress or spinach for some or all of the romaine and basil, dill or tarragon for some or all of the mint.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup chopped green onions including green tops
2 teaspoons chopped garlic
3 cups fresh or frozen sweet peas (about 12 ounces)
2 cups defatted chicken or vegetable stock
1-½ packed cups finely chopped romaine or other green lettuce
3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
2/3 cup buttermilk
Salt
Drops of lemon juice
Hot pepper sauce such as Tabasco
Garnish: Chopped mixed fresh herbs of your choice
Heat oil in a deep saucepan, add the green onions and garlic and sauté over moderate heat until softened but not brown, about 3 minutes. Add the peas and stock and bring to a simmer. Cook until peas are just cooked through and remove from heat to cool for a few minutes. Add mixture to a blender and puree. Add romaine and mint and puree again until smooth. Add buttermilk and whiz again till combined. Season to your taste with salt, drops of lemon juice and hot pepper sauce. Strain through a medium strainer and chill. Taste again for seasoning. Ladle into chilled bowls or mugs and top with chopped herbs if desired. Can be made up to a day ahead and stored covered in the refrigerator.
Note: If using fresh peas you may want to add a little sugar to the soup depending on their maturity.
COLD CUCUMBER AND HONEYDEW MELON SOUP WITH CRAB
Serves 6 – 8
The combination of the cucumber and honeydew is an intriguing flavor combination and also visually interesting. Being a west coast boy, I think Dungeness crab is the best but use whatever you like. I’ve used cream here to add richness to the soup. You could also leave it out or substitute buttermilk if desired. All are good. I recommend serving this in wide shallow bowls for best dramatic effect!
2 quarts roughly chopped peeled and seeded English (burp less!) cucumbers
1 quart roughly chopped and seeded ripe honeydew melon
3 tablespoons or so fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoons sugar
1/3 cup heavy cream
Salt
Drops of hot sauce
10 ounces fresh picked crab meat (1 cup or so)
3/4 cup seeded and diced yellow and/or red tomatoes
1/2 cup diced firm ripe avocado
2 teaspoons each chopped fresh chives and tarragon (or basil)
Garnish: Fresh herb sprigs and/or chopped nasturtium flowers and leaves, if available.
Add cucumbers, melon, 2 tablespoons of lemon juice and sugar to a food processor and puree until smooth. Strain through a medium strainer pushing down on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Stir in cream and season to taste with salt and hot sauce. You should end up with about 1 quart of soup. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
Gently combine the crab, tomatoes, avocado and herbs. Season to taste with salt, hot sauce and lemon juice. To serve: Gently press crab mixture into a 1/4 cup or so measuring cup and unmold in the center of a large, flat soup plate. Ladle chilled cucumber mixture around and garnish with herbs and/or nasturtiums.
AVOCADO SOUP
Serves 6-8
I usually serve this rich soup cold but it can also be served warm. Be careful not to boil once you’ve added the avocadoes in. I also like to garnish the soup with fresh lobster, prawns or crab to make it a main dish!
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 1/2 cups chopped onion
1 tablespoon minced garlic
4 ounces (4-5 medium) fresh tomatillos, husk removed and chopped
1 teaspoon Mexican oregano
1/2 teaspoon each whole fennel and cumin seed
3-4 cups rich vegetable or chicken stock
½ cup dry white wine
3 tablespoons chopped cilantro
1/2 teaspoon minced, seeded serrano chile (or to taste)
3 medium (1 pound) ripe avocado, peeled and seed discarded
Fresh lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Garnish: Crème fraiche, yogurt or Mexican Crema
Add the olive oil to a deep sauce pan and slowly sauté the onions, garlic, tomatillos, oregano, cumin and fennel seeds until vegetables are soft but not brown (10-15 minutes). Add 2 cups of the stock, the wine and cover and simmer for another 10 minutes or so or until the vegetables are very soft. Off heat and cool.
Add mixture to a blender or food processor and puree until smooth. Add the cilantro, chiles, avocados and 1 cup of stock. Puree again adding more stock until you get the consistency that you like. Season with lemon juice and salt and pepper. Chill for at least 2 hours. To serve: Ladle into chilled bowls and decoratively swirl in a little softened crème fraiche.
COLD FRESH CANTALOUPE SOUP
Serves 4 – 6
We’re seeing many more varieties of melons in the market these days. Use any that you like. I’ve also made this with other yellow or orange fleshed varieties such as Canary or Crane. For an interesting visual twist, cut the recipe in half and separately puree a green fleshed melon such as honeydew and ladle into bowl simultaneously with cantaloupe soup to create a “yin – yang” effect.
8 cups cantaloupe, seeded, and cut into 1/2 inch chunks
1 cup yogurt
1 cup fruity Gewurztraminer or Riesling wine
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon honey (or to taste)
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint
Salt and drops of hot sauce to taste
Garnish: A swirl of pureed and strained raspberries or blackberries, mint leaves, and edible flower petals, if desired.
In food processor or blender, puree all ingredients except garnish until smooth. Pour into a bowl and chill for at least 2 hours for flavors to blend. Can be made up to a day ahead. Garnish berry puree, mint leaves and flowers.
APPLE AND BLUE CHEESE SOUP
Serves 6
Apples and a tangy blue cheese are a great combination, so why not in soup? This rich combination is best served in smaller quantities. The key is to choose a flavorful blue cheese that is creamy and not too dry. If you like more apple flavor then substitute a good organic apple juice for some of the stock or wine.
2 tablespoons butter
1/3 cup finely minced shallots or white part of green onions
3 cups cored, peeled and diced tart-sweet apples such as McIntosh, Gala or Fuji
1/2 cup dry white wine
3 cups or so rich vegetable or chicken stock
8 ounces diced creamy Blue cheese such as Sweet Gorgonzola, Cambazola or Point Reyes Blue
1-1/4 cups light cream
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Drops of fresh lemon juice
Garnish: Minced fresh chives and a drizzle of hazelnut or walnut oil, if desired
In a medium saucepan, melt the butter. Add the shallots and sauté until soft but not brown. Add the apples and continue to cook until they just begin to soften. Add the wine and stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Off heat, add the cheese and cream. In a blender puree the soup until smooth. Correct seasoning with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Add more stock if desired. Chill at least 2 hours before serving.
Garnish with the minced chives and nut oil.
YELLOW GAZPACHO WITH SMOKED SALMON “ALBONDIGAS”
Serves 6-8
“Albondigas” are the traditional pork meatballs served in a spicy Mexican soup. I’ve taken liberty with the term here to apply it to smoked salmon – – somehow it sounds more interesting than “meatball” and a heck of a lot better than “fish ball”! The soup can be made a day ahead of time which allows the flavors to develop and marry. The key here is to have really ripe tomatoes that you’ll probably need to get from a Farmer’s Market, if you don’t grow them yourself.
1-3/4 pounds very ripe yellow or orange tomatoes
3 medium (1 pound) charred, peeled and seeded yellow bell peppers
1 medium (1-1/2 cups) chopped onions
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1/8 teaspoon (big pinch) saffron threads
1/4 teaspoon red chile flakes
3 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup fruity white wine such as Gewurztraminer or Riesling
1 cup rich shrimp, chicken or vegetable stock
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
Fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup each diced, seeded English cucumber, sweet red onion and avocado
Smoked Salmon Albondigas (recipe follows)
Garnish: Basil oil (see page xx)
In a food mill or blender, puree the tomatoes and peppers and strain, pressing down hard on the solids. Set aside. You should have approximately 3 cups of puree.
In a sauté pan over moderate heat sauté the onions, garlic, saffron and chile in olive oil until softened but not brown. Add wine and the stock and continue to cook uncovered for another 6-8 minutes until vegetables are very soft. Puree in a food processor or blender and add to the tomato juice mixture. Season to taste with salt, pepper and drops of lemon juice. Chill.
To serve: Ladle the soup into chilled bowls and scatter the diced cucumber, onion and avocado attractively over. Divide the Smoked Salmon Albondigas among the bowls. Drizzle basil and tomato oils decoratively over the top and serve immediately.
Smoked Salmon Albondigas
3/4 pound good quality smoked salmon, very coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons finely chopped sweet red onion
1 teaspoon finely minced garlic
1 teaspoon finely minced lemon zest
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro (or a mixture of fresh basil and mint)
Mix salmon, onion, garlic, zest and cilantro together and season lightly with salt and pepper. Form into even heaping teaspoon size meatballs and set aside covered and refrigerated until ready to use.
STRAWBERRY GINGER SOUP
Serves 4
Summer fruits make great bases for soups. Here I’ve combined strawberries and fresh ginger juice for a sweet-tart-spicy soup. Almost any berry or combination can be used depending on what’s in season. You can make ginger juice by using a garlic press or pureeing fresh ginger in a blender and then straining it through a fine strainer or squeezing in cheesecloth. The idea of fruit based soups is to not make them too sweet. They are not supposed to be dessert so you’ll want to balance their natural sweetness with acidity
2 1/2 cups strawberry puree (3 pints strawberries), strained
1 ripe banana
1-2 tablespoons ginger juice
Drops of lemon or lime juice
1 cup or so sparkling apple cider
1/2 cup whole milk yogurt
1 cup mixed blueberries and red raspberries
Garnish: Mint sprigs
Combine strawberry and banana in a blender (or use an immersion blender) and blend till smooth. Add ginger and lemon juices to taste. Add enough sparkling cider to desired consistency. Ladle into chilled soup bowls. Serve with a dollop of yogurt, a scattering of fresh berries and a mint sprig or two.
Other Cold Soups in Book:
| CHAPTER | RECIPE | PAGE |
| Shrimp | Cold Shrimp And Buttermilk Soup | |
| Apples | Curried Apple Soup | |
| Soups | Cold Cream Of Red Bell Pepper Soup From The Juicer
Carrot Orange And Ginger Soup Vichyssoise A Simple Creamy Corn Soup |
Rev. 5/24/02 JA
9/2/01 bh
Also reflect Andrea’s Testing notes