EGGNOG
Serves 6
Eggnog is descended from a hot British drink called posset, which consists of eggs, milk, and ale or wine. The basic recipe for eggnog is eggs beaten with sugar, milk or cream, and some kind of spirit. In the American South, bourbon replaced ale (though nog, the British slang for strong ale, stuck). There is a similar concoction called Syllabub which is made with milk, sugar and wine, straddling the line between drink and liquid dessert. I’ve used bourbon and brandy here but you could use either one alone or substitute dark rum.
3 cups whole milk
7 large eggs
1 cup sugar
2 cups heavy cream
1/3 cup bourbon
1/3 cup Cognac or other brandy
1 teaspoon vanilla
Freshly grated nutmeg
Bring milk just to a simmer in a heavy saucepan. Whisk together eggs and sugar in a large bowl, then add hot milk in a slow stream, whisking all the time. Pour mixture into saucepan and cook over moderately low heat, stirring constantly with a heatproof spatula, until mixture registers 170°F on an instant read thermometer, 5 minutes or so.
Pour custard through a fine-mesh strainer into large bowl and stir in the cream, bourbon, brandy, and vanilla. Cool completely, uncovered and then chill covered until cold at least 3 hours and up to 48. The flavor of eggnog improves when it is made a day ahead to allow alcohol to mellow and flavors to marry.
John Ash © 2018
CHAMPURRADO
Serves 4 to 6
1/2 cup masa harina para tortillas such as Maseca brand
3 cups water plus more as needed
1 cup milk
3 1/2 ounces dark chocolate, broken into pieces
3 tablespoons dark brown sugar
1 cinnamon stick or 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Kosher salt
In a large saucepan, add masa and set over medium heat. Immediately add water in a slow, thin stream while whisking constantly to avoid lumps. Bring to a simmer and whisk in milk, chocolate, brown sugar, and a generous pinch of salt until chocolate is melted, about 1 minute. Add cinnamon.
Return to a simmer and lower heat to low. Continue to simmer gently, whisking constantly, for 5 minutes. Discard cinnamon stick, if using. Thin with additional water, as needed, to create a thick-yet-drinkable hot beverage, reheating as necessary. Taste, adding more sugar or salt if desired. Froth with a whisk or immersion blender, then ladle into mugs, and serve.
