MEXICAN EGGS IN PURGATORY
Serves 8
For the Italian breakfast dish Eggs in Purgatory, eggs are baked in a spicy tomato sauce. In this Mexican-inspired take, I have substituted a vibrant, fresh green sauce made tomatillos.
1-pound tomatillos, husked
1 medium poblano stemmed and seeded
1 1/2 cups chopped cilantro leaves and stems
3 scallions, coarsely chopped, plus sliced scallions, for garnish
3/4 cup chicken broth
3 ounces thickly sliced bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, minced
8 large eggs
3 tablespoons grated Cotija cheese or crumbled feta, plus more for garnish
Warm corn tortillas, for serving
Preheat the broiler and position a rack about 8 inches from the heat source. In a blender or food processor, add the husked tomatillos, poblano, chopped cilantro, chopped scallions and chicken broth and puree until smooth.
In a large, shallow flameproof casserole or skillet, cook the bacon in the olive oil over high heat until the bacon is browned, about 4 minutes. Add the minced garlic and cook for 30 seconds, until fragrant. Add the tomatillo puree and cook over moderate heat until the sauce is thickened and dull green, about 10 minutes.
Using the back of a spoon, make 8 depressions in the tomatillo sauce. Remove the casserole from the heat and carefully crack the eggs into the depressions. Sprinkle the eggs and tomatillo sauce with the 3 tablespoons of Cotija cheese. Broil the dish until the egg whites are set but the egg yolks are still runny, about 4 minutes. Garnish with more Cotija cheese and the sliced scallions and serve right away with warm corn tortillas.
Note: The green tomatillo sauce can be covered and refrigerated for up to 2 days. Bring the sauce to room temperature before adding the eggs.
CLASSIC SMOKED SALMON EGGS BENEDICT
Serves 4
Traditionally Eggs Benedict uses Canadian bacon. Here we are using smoked salmon. According to The Food Lover’s Companion by Sharon Tyler Herbst, the dish originated at Manhattan’s famous Delmonico’s Restaurant when regular patrons, Mr. and Mrs. LeGrand Benedict, complained that there was nothing new on the lunch menu. Delmonico’s maître d’ and Mrs. Benedict began discussing possibilities and Eggs Benedict was supposedly the result.
Hollandaise Sauce (recipe follows)
2 teaspoons vinegar
4 large eggs
2 English muffins, fork split in half
Softened butter
5 ounces or so sliced smoked salmon
Optional garnishes: Dusting of paprika and fresh salmon roe
Make the Hollandaise sauce and keep warm. Poach the eggs by filling a 10-inch skillet with water at least 1-inch deep. Add vinegar and bring to a simmer. Break the eggs one by one and carefully slide into the water around the edge of the skillet which will help keep the eggs together. Poach for 3 minutes or so or until the whites of the eggs are just set. You want the yolks to be runny. Alternately you can add the eggs, turn off the heat, cover the skillet and let them sit for 4 minutes or so.
Meanwhile toast the English muffin halves and lightly spread with butter.
To serve: Place a muffin half on 4 warm plates, top each with the smoked salmon, a poached egg and a big dollop of hollandaise. Garnish if you like with a sprinkle of paprika and/or fresh salmon roe.
Easy blender Hollandaise Sauce
Makes about 1 cup
8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter
3 egg yolks
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Melt the butter in a small saucepan over moderate heat. Place the egg yolks, lemon juice and mustard in a blender and pulse 2 or 3 times to combine. With the blender running slowly add the hot butter in a thin stream. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add more lemon juice if you’d like. Keep warm.
Note: If the sauce curdles or “breaks” (separates) you can correct by whisking in a teaspoon or two of boiling water, a drop at a time. If that doesn’t work, put another egg yolk in a bowl and very slowly whisk in the broken sauce. Usually it’ll come back together with one of these two methods.
C John Ash 2021
