First a little history – – July 14th in France is Bastille Day, a national holiday, which commemorates the storming of the Bastille. It was a fortress-like prison that, though it only held 7 prisoners at the time of its capture, became a symbol of the corrupt power of Louis the 16th’s oppressive regime. By capturing this symbol it signaled to the French citizens that the king’s power was no longer absolute. It marked the end of the monarchy and the birth of a sovereign nation. It was declared a French national holiday in 1880. As in the US, where the signing of the Declaration of Independence signaled the start of the American Revolution, in France the storming of the Bastille began their Great Revolution. In both countries, the national holiday thus symbolizes the beginning of a new form of government that stressed equality for all citizens and a separation of powers.
Over time these summertime holidays also became an excuse to celebrate with family and friends and often this was done by sharing a wonderful picnic. In Sonoma County, in Northern California’s wine country where I live, we have an active “Francophile” community for whom Bastille Day is usually celebrated with a big potluck picnic. I’ve included some of my favorite recipes following that I’ve brought to these picnics that have a bit of a French flare to them. Add some nice cheeses, fresh seasonal fruits and of course a nice chilled white or dry rose wine or two (French or California) and you are all set!
COLD GREEN PEA SOUP
Serves 4 – 6
This is a simple beautifully green soup in which you can make all kinds of substitutions such as broccoli or asparagus for some or all of the peas, watercress or spinach for some or all of the romaine and basil, dill or tarragon for some or all of the mint. I first encountered a version of this many years ago in France at a little roadside inn. It was a hot day and this soup helped cool things down and was a delicious starter for our lunch. For your picnic make a day ahead so you can chill well and then transport in a thermos.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup chopped green onions including green tops
2 teaspoons chopped garlic
3 cups fresh or frozen sweet peas (about 12 ounces)
2 cups defatted chicken or vegetable stock
1-1/2 cups (packed) finely chopped romaine or other green lettuce
3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
2/3 cup buttermilk
Salt
Drops of lemon juice
Hot pepper sauce of your choice
Garnish: Chopped mixed fresh herbs of your choice
Heat oil in a deep saucepan, add the green onions and garlic and sauté over moderate heat until softened but not brown, about 3 minutes. Add the peas and stock and bring to a simmer. Cook until peas are just cooked through and remove from heat to cool for a few minutes. Add mixture to a blender and puree. Add romaine and mint and puree again until smooth. Add buttermilk and whiz again till combined. Season to your taste with salt, drops of lemon juice and hot pepper sauce. Strain through a medium strainer and chill. Taste again for seasoning. Serve in mugs or small bowls and top with chopped herbs if desired.
Note: If using fresh peas you may want to add drops of honey to the soup depending on their maturity.
CELERY ROOT SALAD
Makes about six cups serving 6 – 8
This is a recipe based on the classic CELERIAC REMOULADE of France, which is universally served in charcuteries and delis in that country. It’s delicious and can easily be made a main course with the addition of some smoked salmon, cooked shrimp or paper-thin sliced proscuitto. Salad can be made ahead and stored refrigerated for up to 3 days. Celery root can vary widely. Pick ones that are heavy for their size, which means there won’t be a hole in the center. Taste the celery root after cutting and if it seems tough or too strongly flavored then blanch it for a few seconds in salted boiling water followed by a dunk in ice water to retain its crunch. If taking on a picnic pack the greens and garnishes separately and combine just at serving time.
1 large celery root (2-1/2 pounds), peeled and rinsed
3/4 cup mayonnaise
1/3 cup buttermilk
3 tablespoons whole grain mustard
1-1/2 tablespoons smooth Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons sherry or brown rice vinegar
Salt and freshly ground pepper
4 cups loosely packed tender young greens such as arugula
Garnish: Sieved hard-boiled egg and chopped chives, if desired.
Slice the peeled celery root into thin rounds and then cut these into thin strips (julienne). Set aside in a bowl. In a separate bowl mix together the mayonnaise, buttermilk, mustards, lemon juice and vinegar until smooth. Stir in celery root to evenly coat and season to taste with salt and pepper.
To serve: Place greens attractively on plates. Mound salad on top and sprinkle sieved hard-boiled egg and chives over top.
PANS BAGNATS (FRENCH TUNA SANDWICHES)
Makes 6 sandwiches
These sandwiches are a specialty in Nice, France. Pan bagnat is local dialect for pain baigne, meaning “soaked bread.” Traditionally, small round crusty loaves of bread called boules are hollowed out and stuffed with tuna, tomatoes, hard-cooked eggs, anchovies and vinaigrette. The sandwiches are assembled a few hours ahead so that the flavors can marry and the crusty bread absorbs the juices without getting soggy. You can use boules if you can find them or baguettes as I have here which might be easier to find in most markets. You could certainly use good quality canned oil packed tuna for this recipe but since it’s for a special day, I’m using fresh.
2 French baguettes
1 pound tuna steaks
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons (or more) fresh lemon juice, one large lemon
3 tablespoons capers, drained
1/3 cup chopped red onion
1 6-1/2 ounce jar marinated artichoke hearts, drained, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup pitted black olives, coarsely chopped
1 cup small pearl or pear shaped tomatoes, halved
1 cup lightly packed torn flat leaf parsley or arugula leaves
Crisp baguettes in a preheated 400-degree oven for 3 – 5 minutes. Cool, cut into thirds and then cut each piece in half lengthwise. With your fingers gently remove some of the bread in the middle leaving a margin of ½ inch or so.
Liberally coat the tuna with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill, broil or sauté the steaks with high heat until lightly browned but still pink in the center, 3 minutes or so total depending on thickness. Cool and place tuna in a bowl and separate into nice chunks with a fork. Add 2 tablespoons lemon juice, capers, onion, artichokes, olives, tomatoes and parsley and toss gently. Season to your taste with salt and pepper along with additional lemon juice if desired and a tablespoon or two of olive oil.
Pack the tuna mixture on to baguette halves and set tops in place. Press down to set the bread and tuna mixture together. Wrap well in waxed paper or plastic and keep cool. At the picnic, peel the paper or plastic back as you eat the bagnat. The wrapping over the end will catch the delicious juices as you eat it.
SPICY GINGER HUMMUS
Makes about 2-1/2 cups
Though not really French I love hummus in its many forms but for picnics as a dip for raw vegetables, or as the French would call them Crudites. Classic hummus is made with garbanzos and tahini (sesame butter). I’ve changed the mix a bit as you’ll note.
2 teaspoons chopped garlic
1 tablespoon peeled and finely chopped fresh ginger
2 cups cooked garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed
1/4 cup cashew or peanut butter
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon Asian chili sauce such as Sriracha*, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/3 cup vegetable stock or water
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice, or to taste
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 green onion, chopped
Add garlic, ginger, beans, cashew butter, soy sauce, chili sauce, and cumin to a food processor and pulse to chop. Add the water and lemon juice and process till nearly smooth but still with a little texture. Add cilantro and green onion and pulse a couple of times to just combine. Store covered and refrigerated up to a week.
*Available in the Asian foods section of many supermarkets and at Asian markets.
John Ash © 2006
