Serves 6 to 8
Hog Island founder John Finger decreed that the New England–style clam chowder
served at the restaurant needed to be like his mom’s, with no thickeners, unlike many
versions of this dish that use a roux. Because of this, the flavor of the clams is allowed to
sing. This creamy classic chowder is served with whole clams in the shell, and plenty of
tender potatoes, buttery leeks, and bacon.
6 pounds (2.7 kg) small Manila clams in the shell, scrubbed (page 000)
Chowder Base
8 to 10 (3 pounds/1.4 kg) Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into bite-size cubes
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 sprigs fresh thyme
1/2 pound (225 g) thick-sliced bacon, diced
2 large leeks, white part only, thinly sliced and well rinsed
1/2 small stalk celery, thinly sliced
1 large carrot, peeled and thinly sliced
4 cups (960 ml) heavy cream
Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper
Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish
Warm crusty bread, for serving
After scrubbing the clams, allow them to drain in the colander in the sink while you
prepare the base.
For the chowder base: In a large, heavy stockpot, bring 5 to 6 cups (1.2 to 1.4 l) of water
to a low boil without salt and cook the potatoes until al dente, or just before fork-tender,
about 8 minutes. Drain, reserving the cooking water.
In the stockpot, melt the butter with the thyme over low heat. Add the bacon and cook
until it has rendered its fat. Add the leeks, celery, and carrot and cook, stirring, until the
vegetables are just beginning to brighten in color, about 3 minutes.
Add the potatoes and 4 cups (960 ml) of the cooking water, reserving the rest for other
soups or to thin the chowder. Turn off the heat. Use the base now, or let cool, cover, and
refrigerate for up to 2 days. Rewarm the refrigerated base before proceeding.
Add the clams to the stockpot over medium heat. Add the chowder base, cover, and
simmer until the clams open, 5 to 6 minutes. Pick out and discard any clams that have not
opened. (Don’t skip this step—unopened clams may spoil the chowder.) Add the cream
and bring the chowder to a simmer. If it is too thick, add some of the reserved potato
water. Season to taste with salt. When the chowder is bubbling in the center, it is ready.
Serve garnished with cracked pepper and parsley, with the bread for dipping. Place extra
bowls on the table for the discarded shells.
John Ash
HIOC Book