It’s very simple: First wash the dried beans thoroughly and pick through to remove any
pebbles or other matter. (Remember dried beans are a natural agricultural product that
comes to us right from the field, just like any other fruit or vegetable!). Place the washed
beans in a deep saucepan and cover with at least 4 inches of cold water. Place the pan on
the stove over high heat and bring it to a boil. As soon as the water boils, remove the pan
from the heat and let it sit for at least one hour. What we’re looking for here is that the
beans are plump with no wrinkled skins. Drain the beans and add fresh water and finish
the cooking as described below.
Why does this work? The initial quick blanching releases a lot of the insoluble sugars,
known as oligosaccharides, that are the main cause of gas, into the water. When you
drained the beans and added new water, many of those sugars went right down the drain.
The quick soak method then helps solve both of the reasons excuses for not cooking and
eating more beans!
Many cooks believe that you can further “de-gas” beans by adding to the cooking water
the herb
Epazote
(either fresh or dried) as they do in Mexico or a piece of the dried
seaweed
Kombu
(available in Asian and natural foods stores) as the Japanese do. Both of
these purportedly will further reduce those evil little gas-producing insoluble sugars!
Some food scientists debunk this but I have to tell you that I’m a believer.
TO COOK THE BEANS
Strain off this initial blanching water (again the beans should now be plump and fat),
rinse the beans well, and return to the pan, again covering with 4 inches or so of cold
water. Bring the beans to a boil and then reduce the heat so that they simmer gently,
partially cover and cook until the beans are tender. This can take anywhere from 15
minutes to 2 hours or more depending on the variety and other factors which are
discussed below.
My simple rules for cooking dried beans are these:
Use the Quick Soak method described above. I prefer it to overnight soaking because
sometimes, over the course of a long soak, the beans will ferment, causing off flavors.
Never add salt or acidic ingredients such as tomatoes, citrus or wine to the beans until
the beans have begun to soften. Although some beans are unaffected by these
additions others are.
Salt and acid can toughen the skins of some beans and result in
uneven cooking. To be on the safe side, I add these seasonings near the end of the
cooking time when the beans are almost done.
If you are going to combine different beans in the same dish, cook each separately
since, as I’ve noted, each variety will have a different cooking time. I’ve never been
a fan of those 18 or 36 or however many dried bean mixtures that are sold even for
soups.
When you cook beans cook some extra and freeze for later use. Beans freeze well
and that way you can have beans in short order.
For bean salads, add vinaigrettes or other dressings while the beans are still warm,
they will absorb the dressings better. If you’re starting with frozen or cooled beans,
warm them first in the microwave or on the stovetop.
Though beans varieties can generally be used interchangeably in any recipe, some are
better for soups, some for salads, some for purees, because of their texture, flavor, or
appearance. Experiment and develop your own favorites! You really can’t go wrong.
A FEW MORE TIPS ON COOKING BEANS:
Cooking time for beans will depend on several factors:
How old the beans are. The previous year’s crop will take longer than this year’s.
Unfortunately this is not always something you know when you purchase them.
Quality of the cooking water. Beans take longer to cook in hard water.
Altitude can also affect time. The higher you are the longer it’ll take.
Variety difference. Some beans cook in as little as 15 minutes other can take 2 hours
or more. Size of the bean is not a determinant of how long they’ll take to cook.
Stove Top vs. Pressure Cooker. Using a pressure cooker can shorten cooking time by
half or more.
Is it OK to use Canned Beans??
You bet it is. Canned beans can be used interchangeably in all of the following recipes
and are perfectly acceptable. The only slight drawbacks that I find with canned is that
they are sometimes overcooked and over salted. Drain and rinse them before using in
any recipe.
WHITE BEAN AND GRILLED ASPARAGUS CROSTINI
Makes 16 – 20 hors d’oeuvres
Good as an hors d’oeuvres I also like to use these as an addition to a salad of baby greens
dressed with a citrus vinaigrette.
5 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
3 tablespoons chopped garlic
2 cups cooked and drained white beans such as cannellini, gigande or flageolet
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest
3 tablespoons lemon juice
3 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 tablespoon chopped mint
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2-pound tender young asparagus
Lemon or truffle extra virgin olive oil
Toasted crostini to serve
Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a sauté pan and add onions and garlic and sauté over
moderate heat until vegetables just begin to color. Add the beans and heat through. Add
mixture to a food processor along with soy sauce, lemon zest, lemon juice, parsley and
mint and process in short bursts until fairly smooth (still should have a little texture).
You may need to add a bit of broth or bean cooking liquid to facilitate. Season to taste
with salt and pepper.
Lightly oil asparagus with remaining olive oil and season with salt and pepper. On an
outdoor or stovetop grill pan, quickly grill asparagus until crisp-tender. Set aside.
To serve: Spread each crostini with a heaping tablespoon of the bean puree. Top with
grilled asparagus cut to fit and drizzle each with a few drops of lemon olive oil.
JAMES BEARD’S BOSTON BAKED BEANS
Serves 6
The trick to good baked beans is cooking them very slowly with indirect heat. This recipe
calls for baking them in a tightly sealed casserole in an oven barely hot enough to toast
bread. As the hours pass, the beans drink up a broth flavored with brown sugar (or
molasses), mustard and pepper. The gentle cooking prevents the beans from breaking up
and becoming mushy. By the time they’re done, the pork is falling off its bones and the
beans are the classic rusty brown. Be sure to season them amply with salt so the
sweetness has a sturdy counterpart.
Beard’s recipe calls for dark brown sugar. The alternative is to use molasses, which will
render a final flavor and color more familiar to canned-bean devotees. The recipe itself
requires no great cooking skills — if you can peel an onion and boil water, you’re all set
— but it will easily take up an afternoon. Plan it for a day when you’re at home.
2 cups of white pea beans
(navy beans)
1 scant teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
1 medium onion, peeled
4 pork spareribs, or 8 baby-back ribs
1/3 cup dark brown sugar or molasses
2 teaspoons dry mustard
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
In a large bowl, soak the beans in 2 quarts of water for 6 hours. Drain the beans and put
them in a large pot. Add the salt and enough cool water to cover 2 inches above the
beans. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until
the beans are just barely tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Drain well.
Bring another pot of water to a boil. Preheat the oven to 250 degrees. In the bottom of a
large casserole with a tight-fitting lid, place the peeled onion — yes, whole — and
spareribs (or baby-back ribs). Spread the beans on top. In a small bowl, mix together the
brown sugar (or molasses), mustard and black pepper and add this to the beans and pork.
Pour in just enough boiling water to cover the beans, put the lid on and bake, occasionally
adding more boiling water to keep the beans covered, until they are tender but not falling
apart, 4 to 5 hours.
Remove the casserole from the oven. Season the beans with salt. Pull the meat from the
ribs. Discard the bones and excess fat and stir the meat back into the beans. With the lid
off, return the casserole to the oven and let the beans finish cooking, uncovered and
without additional water, until the sauce has thickened and is nicely caramelized on top,
about 45 minutes more.
Place the tuna in a salad bowl and break it up slightly with a fork. Add the onion, celery,
parsley, and beans. Drizzle with olive oil and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper and
toss well. Taste and adjust seasonings. Serve at room temperature within 2 hours.
GARBANZO AND HERB SALAD WITH POMEGRANATE DRESSING
Serves 4
This is my version of a simple salad that I had years ago in Greece as part of a mezze or
antipasto offering. You could use any fleshy bean that you liked such as lima or flageolet
in place of the garbanzo. When fresh pomegranates are available in the fall, I add some
of their jewel-like seeds as garnish.
2 cups cooked garbanzo beans
1-1/2 cups lightly packed torn or coarsely chopped Italian parsley leaves
1/3 cups lightly packed torn or coarsely chopped mint leaves
1 small red onion, thinly sliced and soaked in ice water
1 medium English or Armenian cucumber halved, peeled, seeded and sliced at an angle
Pomegranate dressing (recipe follows)
4 ounces drained feta, crumbled
Freshly ground black pepper
Combine the beans, herbs, drained onion and cucumber and toss lightly with the dressing.
Mound on plates and scatter feta over top along with a few grinding of pepper.
Pomegranate Dressing
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses (available at Gourmet and Middle Eastern stores)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Whisk all ingredients together and adjust seasoning to your taste.
GIANT WHITE BEAN STEW
Soup
1-pound dried Gigandes or Italian Corona beans
Bouquet garni
6 cloves garlic, peeled
1 large onion
1 large carrot
1/2 leek
Olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Place the beans in a bowl and cover by 3 inches with cold water. Soak for 12 to 14 hours.
Drain. Place the beans in a heavy-bottomed pot and cover by 2 inches with water. Add
the bouquet garni and garlic, and bring to boil, reduce the heat and simmer until the beans
are tender, 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Toward the end of cooking, finely chop the onion, carrot and
leek. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the vegetables and
cook until the onions turn golden, 5 minutes.
Remove the bouquet garni, add the onion, carrot and leek. Simmer until the beans are
very tender, about 30 minutes. Season well with salt and pepper.
Drain off 2 cups of the cooking liquid and reduce in a saucepan over medium heat until it
reaches a medium-thick consistency, about 7 minutes. Return the liquid to the beans, toss
and add the parsley sauce. Toss and serve immediately.
Parsley sauce
4 cups Italian parsley leaves
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, melted
2 cloves garlic
Combine the parsley, butter and garlic in a food processor and pulse until finely chopped,
about 15 seconds.
HABA BEAN SOUP
Makes a generous 8 cups serving 6 – 8
Haba beans are peeled (saves lots of hand work) and dried fava beans and are nutritional
powerhouses. You can find them at Mexican and Middle Eastern markets or on-line. I
get mine from Purcell Mountain Farms
www.purcellmountainfarms.com
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 cups (2 small) finely chopped onions
2 tablespoons finely chopped garlic
1 cup chopped celery or fennel
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon crushed fennel seed
1/4 teaspoon red chile flakes
2 cups dried haba beans, rinsed and soaked for 4 hours or more and drained
6 cups tasty chicken or vegetable stock
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 – 2 tablespoons dried sumac powder or 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Freshly grated aged goat cheese or parmesan and celery leaves to garnish
Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a deep soup pot and add the onions, garlic and celery and sauté
over moderate heat until crisp tender. Add the cumin, fennel seed and chile flakes and
continue to sauté for 2 – 3 minutes until spices become fragrant.
Add the soaked habas and stock and bring to a boil. Lower heat to a simmer, cover and
cook for 25 – 30 minutes or until beans are very tender and falling apart. Cool slightly
and puree mixture with an immersion or regular blender.
(If using the latter be careful
since hot liquids expand mightily. Fill blender jar only half full, use lowest speed and
cover top with a clean towel rather than the lid to allow for expansion.)
Season to your
taste with salt and pepper.
To serve: Sprinkle sumac on top of soup or alternately stir in fresh lemon juice into each
serving. Drizzle remaining olive oil around and finish with a grating of cheese and celery
leaves, if using.
MEXICAN BLACK BEAN SOUP
Serves 6 – 8
This is a soup based on a recipe from a home cook friend in the Yucatan. Like most soups in
that area the role of the garnishes is very important and you can use any or all of those
suggested.
1-pound black beans
6 cups water
4 cups rich chicken stock
1/4 cup olive oil
2 medium white onions chopped
6 cloves garlic, chopped
1 teaspoon cumin powder
1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 tablespoon oregano leaves, preferably Mexican
2 teaspoons medium hot chile powder such as Ancho or Chimayo powder, or to taste
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1-1/2 cups cooked rice, optional
Garnishes (any or all!):
Chopped green onions, including tops
Cilantro sprigs
Diced avocado
Diced fresh tomato
Sliced radishes
Thinly sliced fried corn tortillas
Lime wedges
Crema or sour cream
Chopped jalapeno or serrano chilies
Pick over the dry beans and rinse. Place beans and water in a soup pot; cover and simmer for
about 30 minutes. Add chicken stock and simmer till beans are tender, about 1 hour total. Dip
out about 2 cups of bean mixture and carefully puree in a blender or food processor. Add
back to pot.
Heat the oil in a skillet over moderately high heat and sauté the onion, garlic, cumin, fennel,
oregano and chile until the onions are soft. Add to the soup pot along with the rice if using
and simmer for a few minutes more. Serve with garnishes to be added as desired.
MASH OF FAVA BEANS, POTATOES, GREENS AND POACHED EGGS
Serves 6
From Apulia this is a classic supper dish. You’ll need peeled dried fava beans for this
recipe which are available at Italian and Middle Eastern markets as well at from Purcell
Mountain Farms. They are also known as Haba Beans.
8 ounces dried, peeled fava beans
3 cups water
3 cups chicken or vegetable stock
2 medium Yukon gold potatoes, about 1 pound, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
1/2 pounds tender arugula
4 tablespoons flavorful extra virgin olive oil plus extra for drizzling
Sea Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan, Asiago or Pecorino cheese
6 large poached or fried eggs
Place the dried favas in a large saucepan, add water and stock and bring to a boil. Reduce
heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the potatoes and simmer until the favas and
potatoes are tender and falling apart, about 20 minutes. If the pot starts to run dry before
the beans and potatoes are done, add a little more water. The mixture should be fairly dry
when done. If not stir over moderate heat to evaporate any remaining moisture.
Meanwhile chop the arugula and sauté until softened in 2 tablespoons of olive oil.
Season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside.
Mash the potatoes and favas and beat for a minute or two until they are fluffy. Beat in
the remaining olive oil, parmesan and the cooked greens and season to your taste with
salt and pepper.
Divide the puree among 6 bowls, top with an egg and drizzle with more olive oil if
desired.
SEA BASS STEAMED WITH BLACK BEANS
Steaming is a wonderful, healthy way to cook fish. The Chinese are masters at this
technique. Here I’ve used Sea Bass but you could use any firm white fish or even
salmon, scallops or shrimp adjusting cooking times accordingly. I usually use a Chinese
bamboo steamer set over a pot of boiling water. The advantage of these is that you can
stack several on top of each other so that you can easily double the recipe. If you don’t
have a bamboo steamer you can jury-rig your own with any deep pot that has a tight-
fitting cover and that is wide enough to hold the steaming plate. Simply place an
ovenproof ramekin on the bottom of the pot to elevate the plate above the boiling water.
Fermented or salted black beans are widely available in Asian markets and some super
markets.
For the Sauce:
2 tablespoons soy sauce or tamari
2 tablespoons dry sherry or Shao-Hsing wine
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
Pinch freshly ground white pepper
3 tablespoons chicken or vegetable stock
6 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon finely sliced garlic
1-1/4 cups sliced shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and discarded
1 tablespoon peeled and very finely slivered fresh ginger
4 six-ounce Sea Bass fillets
3 tablespoons Chinese dried (fermented) black beans, rinsed well
Garnish: fresh cilantro sprigs
In a blender add the soy sauce, sherry, sugar, vinegar, lemon juice, sesame oil, pepper
and stock and blend for a few seconds. With motor running add 4 tablespoons oil slowly
to form a lightly thickened sauce. Set aside.
In a sauté pan add the remaining oil over moderately high heat and quickly sauté the
garlic, mushrooms and ginger until just cooked through. Place the fish on a heatproof
plate (or plates) that will fit in your steamer. Top each with some of the mushroom
mixture and then spoon sauce mixture over that. Sprinkle black beans around and
carefully put plate(s) in the steamer. Cover and steam until the fish is just cooked
through, about 10 minutes.
Place fish on warm serving plates and spoon juice and vegetables over. Garnish with
cilantro sprigs and serve immediately.
BLACK BEAN VEGGIE BURGER
Serves 4
The repeated chorus with all burgers is to not over work them when putting them together
to make sure that they have some texture and moisture left in them after cooking. This is
also important with vegetable-based burgers. You can grill or sauté these but I prefer the
latter because they are more delicate and have a bit of a tendency to fall apart since they
don’t have the raw protein that meats and fishes have to hold everything together. If you
decide to grill them, I recommend a hinged grill rack, which makes it easy to turn them.
This recipe has a bit of a Mexican twist to it.
3 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup chopped green onions, including both white and green parts
1 small seeded and stemmed poblano pepper, finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 15 oz. can cooked black beans, drained and rinsed
1/2 cup roughly chopped and loosely packed cilantro leaves
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1/2 cup toasted whole grain breadcrumbs, made from 2 slices or so of bread
1/2 teaspoon pure chile powder such as Ancho or Chimayo
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon salt or to taste
Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a small sauté pan over moderate heat and add the onions, pepper
and garlic and sauté for a minute or two to just soften a little and remove the raw taste.
Remove from heat and place in the bowl of a food processor along with the beans. Pulse
2 or 3 times to roughly chop the beans. Be very careful not to over process.
Place mixture in a bowl and gently stir in the rest of ingredients. Divide the mixture into
4 portions and form into patties. Chill uncovered for at least 30 minutes in the
refrigerator. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil to a sauté pan and over medium heat
cook the burgers until nicely browned on both sides, about 5 minutes.
Serve on a bun with traditional garnishes or, to complete the Mexican theme, top with
some of the following salsa:
Tomatillo and Avocado Salsa
Makes about 3/4 cup
1 medium fresh tomatillo, husk removed, washed and coarsely chopped
1/2 teaspoon chopped garlic
1/2 teaspoon seeded and chopped fresh serrano chile, or to taste
1 tablespoon chopped green onion
1 large ripe avocado, peeled and pitted
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
In a food processor add the tomatillos, garlic, chile and scallions and pulse to finely chop.
Coarsely chop the avocado, add to the processor and pulse until just blended. Salsa
should still have some texture. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Store covered and
refrigerated for up to 2 days.
WHITE BEANS WITH ‘NDUJA, KALE, AND BREADCRUMBS
Serves 4
‘Ndujais a spicy, spreadable fermented pork salami that originated in the southern Italian
region of Calabria. Most cured sausages have a three-to-one lean-meat-to-fat ratio, but
‘nduja flips that ratio and boasts a three-to-one fat-to-meat ratio. This high fat content
gives ‘nduja its soft, spreadable texture and allows it to easily emulsify and meld into
sauces, stews, and the like. ‘Nduja also brings plenty of floral heat from crushed
Calabrian chilies, which comprise 30% of the sausage mixture. It is lightly smoked and
fermented, which gives the sausage a deep flavor with a nice funky finish. Look for it in
markets that specialize in Italian charcuteries or on-line.
For the Beans:
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
large shallots, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
Kosher salt
4 ounces (1/2 cup)’nduja
3(15-ounce) cans low-sodium white beans
such as cannellini or Great Northern, drained and rinsed
3 cups homemade or store-bought low-sodium chicken stock
1 small bunch (2 – 3 ounces) lacinato kale, tough stems removed, leaves cut into 1-inch
pieces
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice (from one lemon; zest finely grated and set aside before
juicing fruit)
For the Breadcrumb topping:
2 tablespoons
extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup (1 1/4 ounces)
panko breadcrumbs
1/4 cup chopped
fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
Finely grated zest from one lemon
For the Beans:
In large, straight-sided sauté pan or Dutch oven, heat olive oil over medium heat until
shimmering. Add shallots and garlic, season lightly with salt, and cook, stirring
frequently, until softened but not brown, 5 to 7 minutes.
Add ‘nduja and, using a wooden spoon, break it into pieces and stir vigorously to
combine with shallots and garlic. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until fat from
‘nduja separates, and shallots and garlic are stained red and fully coated with ‘nduja, 3 to
5 minutes longer.
Add beans. Use wooden spoon to crush roughly 1/4 of the beans against sides and bottom
of the pan. Stir until beans are fully incorporated and coated in ‘nduja-shallot mixture.
Add chicken stock, season lightly with salt, and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring
occasionally, until thickened to a creamy, stew-like consistency, with some beans just
poking out on the surface, about 15 minutes.
Add kale and stir to incorporate and very lightly wilt the greens, about 30 seconds.
Remove from heat, stir in lemon juice, and season to taste with salt.
For the Breadcrumbs:
While the beans simmer, combine oil and breadcrumbs in medium
skillet, and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until toasted and golden
brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Add parsley and lemon zest, season lightly with salt, stir to
combine, and continue to cook until parsley begins to sizzle and mixture is very fragrant
of citrus, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Transfer breadcrumb mixture to a small bowl and set
aside until you are ready to serve.
For Serving:
Divide beans between individual serving bowls and sprinkle with
breadcrumbs. Serve immediately, passing more breadcrumbs at the table.
John Ash © 12/23
