• Mt. Tam Toasts
• Hog Island Clam Chowder
• Asparagus, Arugula, Parmesan and Roasted Mushroom Salad
• Halibut in a Spicy Coconut Broth
• Lemon Polenta Cake
Beth Schlanker, Santa Rosa Press Democrat
MT. TAM TOASTS
Makes 12
I adapted this idea from Cow Girl Creamery which they used as a part of a delicious chicory salad. Easy to make. Pop into the oven to melt the cheese just before serving.
1 baguette sliced diagonally into twelve 1/2-inch toasts
Olive oil
1 small Fuyu persimmon or tart sweet apple, cut into 12 thin wedges
1/2 wheel of Mt. Tam cheese cut into 12 wedges
Fig or peach jam
Flaky salt if desired
Preheat oven to 425°. Brush toasts lightly with olive oil on both sides and place them on a foil lined baking sheet. Place in the oven for 10 minutes or until lightly browned. We’re shooting for toasts which are crispy on the outside and a little soft in the center.
Top each toast with a slice of persimmon and then a slice of Mt. Tam cheese. When ready to serve, turn the oven to broil. Place the now topped toasts under the broiler until the cheese is melted and starting to bubble, a minute or two.
Remove from oven, top with a little nubbin of fig jam, salt if desired and serve warm.
HOG ISLAND CLAM CHOWDER
Makes 6 – 8 servings
I’ve been part of the Hog Island Oyster family since it was founded more than 35 years ago. Besides oysters, Hog Island also grows Manila clams, a small sweet clam that is good both raw and cooked. Hog Island selected to raise this clam especially for their acclaimed clam chowder, served at their San Francisco, Marin and Napa oyster bars.
When developing Hog Island’s chowder recipe, co-founder John Finger gave the chef strict instructions to use only fresh clams — and no flour to thicken it. “Where I grew up, nobody puts flour in the chowder’. The result is a fresh-tasting, creamy broth surrounding a mass of tiny, sweet clams.
1/2-pound high quality bacon, sliced thinly
1 cup celery, thinly sliced
3 cups leek, white part only, thinly sliced on the diagonal
2 cups carrot, peeled and thinly sliced
3 large sprigs fresh thyme
2 tablespoons butter
5 cups Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into bite-size cubes
6 pounds small, fresh Manila clams in the shell, scrubbed
1-quart heavy cream
Salt and pepper
Chopped parsley for garnish
First step: place clams in a colander in the kitchen sink, rinse thoroughly under running water. Pick through and discard clams with broken or open shells. Allow clams to drain in the sink while you prepare your stock.
BASE: In a large stockpot bring about 5-6 cups of water to a low boil (no salt) and cook the potatoes until al dente, or just before fork-tender.
While the potatoes are simmering, in a second heavy-bottom pot, melt the butter with the thyme. Render the bacon in the butter and thyme (over low heat, careful not to burn); once bacon is rendered add leeks and celery, cook until vegetables are translucent. Add carrots and cook until bendable without breaking. Add the potatoes and 4 cups of potato cooking water. Turn off heat and set aside. The base can be made one day ahead and kept chilled.
CLAMS: Portion your clams out per single, or double serving, approx. 1/2 -3/4 pound per serving. Working in batches, place one or two single serving(s) of clams in a heavy bottomed sauté pan over medium heat. Ladle one cup of the chowder base on top and cover the pan, simmer for about 5-6 minutes, or until most clams open. Skim through and pick out any clams that have not opened. (Don’t skip this step — unopened clams may spoil the chowder.)
Add in 1/2-cup cream per serving and bring the chowder to a simmer (1-2 minutes). If it is too thick, add in more of the potato water. When the chowder is bubbling in the middle, it is ready to serve. Pour individual servings into a large soup bowl or divide double servings between two bowls.
Serve garnished with cracked pepper and chopped parsley, and rustic, crusty warm bread for dipping. Place extra empty bowls on the table for discarding clamshells. Enjoy!
ARUGULA, PARMESAN AND ROASTED PORTABELLA MUSHROOM SALAD
Serves 4
This is a simple and delicious salad. I’m roasted the mushrooms here but you could certainly grill them too to add a smoky flavor. Also I’m using portabellas but you can also use other large wild type mushrooms such as Trumpet Royale or Oyster or a combination.
1 pound firm Portabella mushrooms
Olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
6 cups gently packed young arugula
Honey-Lemon Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
12 meaty oil cured olives, pitted and slivered
1 cup (2 ounces or so) finely shaved parmesan cheese
Remove the stems and save for another use and scrape out and discard the black gills from the portabellas. Brush the mushrooms liberally with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Arrange in a single layer on a lightly oiled baking sheet. Roast in a preheated 375 degree oven for 10 – 12 minutes or until softened and lightly browned.
Meanwhile toss the arugula with some of the dressing and divide among 4 plates. Slice the mushrooms thickly and arrange artfully on the salad along with the olives and parmesan.
Honey-Lemon Vinaigrette
Makes about 1 cup
2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot
6 tablespoons seasoned rice vinegar
2 tablespoons fragrant honey
4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
5 tablespoons olive oil
Whisk all ingredients together. Store covered and refrigerated up to 5 days.
ALASKA HALIBUT IN A SPICY COCONUT BROTH
Serves 4
This is a delicious dish that can be done with any fresh, meaty and sustainable fish. It uses a curry mixture called laksa originally was a descriptor for noodles but now has come to mean a spicy coconut milk-based dish with or without noodles. It has its roots in Malaysia. In place of the spinach you could use other Asian greens like steamed baby bok choy.
4 fillets of fresh halibut cut at least 3/4-inch-thick (approximately 1-1/2 pounds total)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil
6 cups lightly packed young spinach
1/2 cup or so chicken stock
3/4 cup or so coconut milk, well stirred
3/4 cup laksa paste or to taste (recipe follows)
Garnish: Daikon or other savory sprouts such as sunflower
Pat the halibut dry, season lightly with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in an ovenproof sauté pan (preferably non-stick) over moderately high heat and quickly sauté sea bass on one side until nicely browned. Turn fish over and place pan in a preheated 475-degree oven for 4 – 5 minutes or until just cooked through.
While fish is cooking heat the stock and coconut milk in a small sauce pan and bring to a simmer. Stir in laksa paste and keep warm. Thin if desired with additional stock or coconut milk.
To serve add remaining tablespoon of oil to a large skillet and heat over moderately high heat. Add spinach stir-fry until just beginning to wilt, about 1 minute. Place spinach in the center of shallow warm bowls and top with halibut. Ladle broth around, top with sprouts and serve immediately.
Laksa Paste
Makes a little more than a cup
2 tablespoons chili garlic sauce (or to taste)*
1/3 cup chopped shallots
1/3 cup chopped and toasted macadamia nuts or blanched almonds
1/4 cup peeled and finely chopped ginger
2 tablespoons coriander seeds, toasted and ground
2 tablespoons fish sauce (or to taste)
Juice and zest from 2 large limes
2 teaspoons sugar
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1/2 cup or so coconut milk
Add all ingredients to a blender and process for a couple of minutes or until very smooth. Store covered in the refrigerator for up to 5 days or frozen for up to 3 months.
*Chili garlic sauce is available in the Asian markets and the Asian section of some supermarkets. Lee Kum Kee from Hong Kong is a widely distributed brand.
LEMON POLENTA CAKE WITH ROSEMARY SYRUP AND FRESH RASPBERRIES
Serves 8
This is a delicious rustic cake similar to those made in many parts of Northern Italy. It’s best eaten the day it is made. Key here is to not over-bake the cake. The syrup can be made days ahead and is delicious drizzled on ice cream, pancakes, on a lusty blue cheese or as an unusual sweetener for iced teas. Other woody herbs such as lemon thyme or oregano make equally interesting syrups
1 cup stone ground cornmeal (or 3/4 cup cornmeal plus 1/4 cup polenta)
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup sugar
2 large eggs plus 2 egg whites
1/4 cup vegetable oil (plus 1 tablespoon for pan)
2 tablespoons softened butter
1/2 cup plain yogurt
1-1/2 tablespoons grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 pint fresh raspberries
Rosemary Syrup (recipe follows)
Garnish: Lightly sweetened and whipped cream or crème fraiche and rosemary sprigs.
Line bottom of an 8-inch cake pan with parchment or wax paper and lightly oil. Sift cornmeal, flour, baking powder and salt together in a bowl and set aside.
In a separate bowl, beat sugar, eggs and egg whites together until creamy. Beat in oil, butter, yogurt, lemon zest and juice until smooth. Fold in dry ingredients until just combined. Do not over mix.
Pour batter into prepared pan and smooth top with a spatula. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for 35 – 40 minutes or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.
Cool for 15 minutes on a rack. Invert, peel off paper and cool completely.
Store wrapped in plastic in refrigerator for up to 5 days or frozen for one month.
To serve: Cut cake into wedges and place on plates, scatter raspberries around and drizzle a tablespoon or two of rosemary syrup over berries. Garnish with rosemary sprigs.
Rosemary Syrup
3/4 cup sugar
3/4 cup dry white wine
1/3 cup water
3 tablespoons rosemary leaves
1 large bay leaf
1/2 teaspoon whole peppercorns
3 tablespoons golden balsamic vinegar*
Place all ingredients in a saucepan, bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Cool, strain and store refrigerated.
*Alessi from Italy is widely available. I also like the vinegar from Sparrow Lane in the Napa Valley www.sparrowlane.com
John Ash © 2023