
CHILLED ZUCCHINI SOUP WITH LEMON-CUMIN SHRIMP AND CILANTRO CREAM
Serves 4 to 6
This velvety soup has no cream except for the little bit of sour cream that’s spooned on top. It’s perfect for summer entertaining: All of the components can be prepared a day ahead.
Cilantro cream:
1/2 cup sour cream
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1 small garlic clove, pressed
Shrimp:
1 pound peeled cooked medium shrimp
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon peel
Soup:
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium onion, sliced (about 2 cups)
2 garlic cloves, sliced
6 medium zucchini (about 1 3/4 pounds), cut into 1/4-inch-thick rounds
4 cups low-salt chicken broth
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro plus sprigs for garnish
For cilantro cream:
Whisk sour cream, cilantro, and garlic in small bowl to blend. Season with salt and pepper. Cover, chill and set aside.
For shrimp:
Combine all ingredients in a medium bowl. Cover and chill for at least 4 hours.
For soup:
Heat oil in heavy large pot over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until tender, about 6 minutes. Add garlic; stir 1 minute. Add zucchini; stir to coat. Stir in broth; bring to boil. Cover, reduce heat to medium low, and simmer until zucchini is tender, about 8 minutes. Cool to lukewarm. Add chopped cilantro. Working in batches, puree soup in blender until smooth.
Transfer soup to large bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and chill until cold, about 4 hours. Can be made 1 day ahead. Keep chilled.
Divide soup among bowls. Top each with shrimp, dividing equally. Spoon dollop of cilantro cream over each, garnish with cilantro sprigs, and serve.
PAPPARDELLE WITH ZUCCHINI, ANCHOVIES AND MINT
Serves 4
4 ounces canned anchovies, drained and minced
1/4 cup finely chopped mint
2 tablespoons snipped chives
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper
1 1/2 pounds medium zucchini, thinly sliced lengthwise
Coarse sea salt
1-pound dried pappardelle
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese and lemon wedges, for serving
In a large bowl, mix the anchovies, mint, chives and 2 tablespoons of the oil.
In a large skillet, heat the remaining 1/4 cup of oil until shimmering. Add the garlic and crushed red pepper; cook over moderate heat until the garlic is lightly golden, about 3 minutes. Add the zucchini, season with salt and cook over moderately high heat, tossing, until crisp-tender, about 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, cook the pappardelle in a large pot of boiling salted water until al dente. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta water. Return the pasta to the pot. Add the zucchini and the reserved pasta water and toss over moderate heat. Transfer the pasta to the bowl with the anchovies and herbs, season with salt and toss well. Serve right away, passing the Parmesan and lemon wedges at the table.
GREEN CURRY SHRIMP WITH ZUCCHINI
Serves 6
1 tablespoon green curry paste
3 garlic cloves
2 cups well stirred coconut milk
4 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons lime juice
2 teaspoons light brown sugar
4 tablespoons corn oil, divided
2 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
3 cups zucchini or yellow squash, cut in 1/4-inch half rounds
1-1/2 pounds prawns, peeled and deveined
2 tablespoons Thai or Italian basil leaves, thinly sliced
Steamed rice, for serving
In a blender or food processor, mix 2 tablespoons of water, the green curry paste and garlic, and blend until smooth.
Combine the coconut milk, fish sauce, lime juice, brown sugar; set aside.
Heat a large sauté pan until very hot. Add 2 tablespoons oil and sauté shallots until translucent, 1 minute. Add the zucchini and stir-fry until the squash just browns, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer the shallots and zucchini to a bowl.
Reheat the same pan and add 2 tablespoons of oil and sauté the curry paste for several seconds. Stir in the coconut milk mixture and simmer for 5 minutes. Right before serving, stir in the shrimp and basil and cook until the shrimp turns just opaque. Stir in the zucchini and serve warm with rice.
ZUCCHINI PICKLES
Makes 3 cups
Adapted from The Zuni Café Cookbook by Judy Rogers
1 pound zucchini
1 small yellow onion
2 tablespoons kosher salt
2 cups cider vinegar
1 cup sugar
1-1/2 teaspoons dry mustard
1-1/2 teaspoons yellow and/or brown mustard seeds
Scant 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
Wash and trim the zucchini, then slice them one-eighth-inch thick; a mandolin works best. Slice the onion very thin as well. Combine the zucchini and onions in a large but shallow nonreactive bowl, add the salt and toss to distribute. Add a few ice cubes and cold water to cover, then stir to dissolve the salt. Alternatively, transfer the salted zucchini and onion slices to a Japanese pickle maker and screw down the top; do not add any water or ice cubes.
After about 1 hour, taste and feel a piece of zucchini — it should be slightly softened. Drain and pat dry.
Combine the vinegar, sugar, dry mustard, mustard seeds and turmeric in a small saucepan and simmer for 3 minutes. Set aside until just warm to the touch. (If the brine is too hot, it will cook the vegetables and make the pickles soft instead of crisp.)
Return the zucchini to a dry bowl and pour over the cooled brine. Stir to distribute the spices. Transfer the pickle to jars, preferably ones that have “shoulders” to hold the zucchini and onions beneath the surface of the brine. Seal and refrigerate for at least a day before serving to allow the flavors to mellow and permeate the zucchini, turning them a brilliant chartreuse color.
Can be stored and refrigerated for a month or more.
John Ash © 2023