Serves 4
A simple version of the Mexican any time-of-day classic. You could add what ever else you wanted to the mix like cooked and crumbled chorizo or other sausage, shredded cooked turkey or chicken, sautéed sliced mushrooms, etc. If you don’t have tortillas, a couple of big handfuls of tortilla or corn chips work as well.
6-day-old corn tortillas cut into strips
Vegetable oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 small white onion, peeled and thinly sliced, about 1 cup
1 medium poblano pepper, stemmed and seeded and cut into 1/2-inch dice
8 large eggs, beaten with a tablespoon or so of water or milk
Drops of your favorite hot sauce
1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Pico de Gallo (recipe follows) or other homemade or store-bought salsa of your choice
1/4 cup or so crumbled queso fresco or Mexican Crema or stirred sour cream
Heat a heavy skillet over medium heat. Add 1/4-inch oil and add the tortilla strips and toss with a teaspoon or so of salt and a big pinch of pepper. Continue stirring until the tortilla strips crisp. At first, they’ll soften and then crisp. Set aside and drain on paper towels. Wipe out skillet with paper towels. Alternately you lightly spray strips with vegetable oil and bake in a preheated 375-degree oven for 10 minutes or so or until crisp.
Add 2 tablespoons of oil in the pan. Sauté the onions and poblanos over medium heat until just beginning to color. Stir in the eggs and reserved tortilla strips and cook stirring until the eggs are softly scrambled.
Off heat, season to your taste with salt, pepper and hot sauce if using. Stir in the cilantro. Divide among 4 warm plates and top with salsa and queso fresco or a drizzle of crema or sour cream.
Pico de Gallo
Makes about 1-1/4 cups
3/4 pound (2 medium) seeded and diced ripe tomatoes
1/3 cup diced red onion
1 teaspoon minced, seeded serrano chile (or to your taste)
1 tablespoon minced fresh garlic
3 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves
Drops of lime or lemon juice to taste
Pinch of sugar
1 tablespoon olive oil (optional)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Combine all ingredients and allow flavors to blend for at least 30 minutes before using. Store covered in refrigerator. For best flavor eat within 3 days but can be stored for as long as 5. Can be easily multiplied.
Side Bar: Pico de Gallo
Pico de Gallo is a classic fresh salsa in Tex-Mex cooking. It translates to “beak of the rooster” and I’ve never heard a definitive reason for why it’s called that. One view is that in Mexico fresh, chunky salsas are often eaten with the forefinger and the thumb that mimics the pecking action of a roster. Another view is that roosters chop up their food before eating it, in the same way that typical fresh salsas are chopped. Quien Sabe? Who knows?
EGG IN A BAGEL HOLE
Makes 2
1 bagel of your choice
1 tablespoon butter
2 eggs
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Cut the bagel in half. If the hole isn’t very big i.e. you can’t imagine a yolk fitting in it—tear out some of the bagel around it. You could also use a biscuit cutter or cup to cut out a perfectly round center.
In a skillet over medium heat, melt 1/2 tablespoon of butter. Place the bagel, inside down, on the skillet.
Crack one egg into a little bowl (or a container with a spout) and gently transfer the egg to the middle of the bagel. It might run out a bit; that’s okay. Season the egg with salt and pepper.
Cover the skillet and let the toad cook for about 3 minutes, or until the egg is done to your liking. Using a spatula, transfer it to a plate and repeat with the other bagel half.
EGGS BAKED EN COCOTTE WITH MUSHROOMS
Serves 4
Adding some dried mushrooms such as porcini makes for a richer mushroom flavor. Soak them in warm water, squeeze dry, chop and add them to the fresh mushrooms when you sauté them.
2 tablespoons butter plus more for buttering the ramekins
3/4 pound mixed exotic mushrooms such as oyster, shiitake, chanterelle, cremini, etc.
3 tablespoons finely chopped shallots or green onions
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons each chopped fresh parsley and basil
Drops of lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 large eggs
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan or Gruyere cheese
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Butter four 1-cup ramekins and set them on a baking sheet.
Wipe mushrooms clean with a damp cloth or towel. Remove and discard stems of shiitake if using. Chop the mushrooms. You should have about 6 cups.
Heat the butter in a large skillet over medium heat and sauté the mushrooms and shallots until they are lightly browned and any moisture has evaporated, about 6 minutes. Stir in 3/4 cup of the cream and cook for another couple of minutes or until the mixture has thickened. Stir in the herbs and season to your taste with lemon juice, salt and pepper.
Divide mushroom mixture among the 4 dishes. Break and carefully tip an egg into each dish and pour the rest of the cream over the whites. Sprinkle each with a little of the cheese. Bake until the white are just set, about 10 minutes and serve at once.
DUTCH BABIES
Serves 4 (Makes one 12-inch or four 6-inch babies)
Baked like Yorkshire pudding or popovers, the eggy batter puffs up unbelievably!
Butter for the pan
3 eggs, at room temperature
1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons melted butter
Lemon wedges
Confectioners’ sugar
Additionally if desired: Maple syrup, fresh berries, fruit compote
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Butter a 12-inch skillet or 4 small skillets (with ovenproof handles) or pans (you can use small pie or cake pans). Place skillet(s) or pans in the oven to heat.
In a blender add the eggs and milk and blend until light, about 1 minute. Add the flour and salt and continue blending until mixture is very smooth. Scrape down sides with a rubber spatula if necessary (turn off the blender first!). Add the melted butter and buzz in. Let rest for a few minutes. Carefully pour the batter into the hot pan(s) and bake until they are puffed and golden. Small pans will take 15 minutes or so and a large pan 20 – 25.
Squeeze lemon juice over the pancake(s), dust with confectioners’ sugar and serve at once with any additions.
EGGS POACHED IN SPICY TOMATO SAUCE
Shakshuka
Serves 4 to 6
Also known as Shakshouka in the Middle East it is a staple throughout Israel, Libya, Algeria and Morocco. It is often served at breakfast but can be found any time of day. Sometimes roasted peppers are added and you can also add cooked meats like lamb or chicken.
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
6 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
1 small jalapeno chili, stemmed and chopped (or to taste)
1 15-ounce can garbanzos, drained and rinsed
1-1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon sweet or smoked paprika
1 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes, preferably fire roasted
1 cup or more chicken stock or water
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese
4 – 6 eggs
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon crumbled dry mint
Warm pita, for serving
Heat oil in a heavy 12″ skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions, garlic and jalapenos and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is soft and just beginning to brown, about 6 minutes. Add garbanzos, cumin and paprika and cook for another minute or two.
Add tomatoes and 1 cup stock; reduce heat to medium, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until thickened slightly, about 15 minutes. With a wooden spoon crush some of the beans to help thicken. Add more stock if desired. Season to your taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle feta over sauce.
Crack eggs into sauce so that eggs are evenly spaced. Cover skillet reduce heat if sauce is bubbling too frantically and cook until whites are set but yolks are runny, 6 to 8 minutes. Sprinkle shakshuka with parsley and mint and serve with pita, for dipping. Alternately eggs can be poached separately and added just before serving to heat thru.
STRAWBERRY-RHUBARB MOUSSE
This is a recipe created by Flo Braker which I love. She lives in Northern California and is the best teacher and author about baking that I know.
Serves 10-12
2 cups sliced rhubarb (3/4 in. thick)
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon water
2 packages unflavored gelatin
1/2 cup orange juice (preferably freshly squeezed)
2 quarts strawberries, rinsed, hulled, and sliced lengthwise 1/4 inch thick
2 teaspoons grated orange peel
3 large egg whites
1/2 cup whipping cream
Garnish: Mint sprig
In a 2- or 3-quart pan, stir rhubarb, 1/4 cup sugar, and water. Bring to simmering over high heat, then reduce heat and simmer, covered, until rhubarb is very tender when pierced, 8 to 10 minutes.
In a small bowl, stir gelatin into orange juice and let stand until softened, 4 to 5 minutes; set aside.
Meanwhile, place 2 cups strawberries and 1/2 cup sugar in a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium-low heat. Occasionally shake pan and gently stir until sugar dissolves, 5 to 8 minutes. Remove from heat; gently stir in rhubarb and gelatin mixtures and orange peel. Let cool, then chill until mixture is cold to touch and flows slowly when tilted, 30 to 40 minutes (do not overchill).
In a large bowl of an electric mixer, beat egg whites and remaining 2 tablespoons sugar until soft peaks form; transfer to another large bowl. In mixer bowl, beat cream until thick, then fold in rhubarb mixture. Gently fold in egg whites until no streaks remain. Chill airtight until slightly firm to touch, about 20 minutes.
Set aside about 6 of the prettiest berry slices. In a deep 2- to 2 1/2-quart glass serving bowl, spread 1/4 of mousse in an even layer. Using 1/2 of remaining strawberries, arrange them individually on top in a very even double layer. Spread with 1/2 of remaining mousse. Repeat layering, ending with small mounds of mousse. Chill airtight until mousse is slightly firm to touch, at least 1 hour or up to 1 day.
Garnish with reserved berries and mint, and spoon into bowls.
John Ash © 2025